Claire Corlett

Fish Food, Fish Tanks, and More
Korda Carp Fishing Masterclass 5: Approaching a new water | Danny Fairbrass | Free DVD 2018

Korda Carp Fishing Masterclass 5: Approaching a new water | Danny Fairbrass | Free DVD 2018


One of the questions I get asked
at shows probably more than any other is: “I’m going on a new lake,
where do I start?” Whilst it’s very difficult
to answer that question at a show, what I hope to do
over the next few sessions is show you how I fish a new lake. This 45-acre pit behind me
is in Broom, in Bedfordshire. I’ve been here a couple of times before. I’ve got limited information
about what’s swimming around in here, so I really am starting from scratch. The first bit of advice I can give you
is let the carp tell you where to fish. People think there’s a magic answer
with tackle and bait that means you’re suddenly
going to start catching them. That is simply not true. You’ve got to get there early, you’ve got to do laps of the lake
until you actually find them. This place is an open lake,
it’s really affected by the wind. The fish are quite young and
they’re not really affected that much by angling pressure,
so they move around a hell of a lot and often they’re on the wind,
but not today. We’ve got a northerly wind blowing,
it’s very, very cold and on my laps around the lake
I saw from the other side of the lake, I saw a fish show off this point
and then it showed again. So that is the obvious place to start. Always try
and get there early if you can. They’re going to show
in the first couple of hours of daylight if they show at all. If you turn up
at one o’clock in the afternoon, you’re just walking around
with really nothing to go at. So my first tip
is get there at first light. When I first arrive at a new venue, it’s fish activity that really dictates
how I should fish. So if all the fish are in a quiet bay
and they’re showing, there’s heads coming out
one after the other, then I’ll literally plop three rods out,
really light leads on, helicopter rigs so you can fish over any
kind of lake bed with a pop-up on, and see if I can get a quick bite. If the fish are out in open water,
maybe they’re not showing that much. I’ve had the odd sign, then
I would perhaps try and find an area out in open water
near where I’ve seen the fish, establish a bit of a baited area, but still be prepared to move
if that doesn’t spark up. So in this situation
I’d cast around with a marker float and then with a bare lead just
to make sure the area’s clean enough. I’d put 20 spombs of bait out,
that’s crumbed-up boilie and sweet corn, two brilliant baits
for this time of the year. I’m using corn in my mix in this session because I know there’s hardly
any nuisance fish in this lake. There’s no real bream, there’s a few
tench, but they’re not really a problem. Carp absolutely love corn and
if you’re trying to go on somewhere new and get a feeding response out of fish
you don’t know a lot about, if you can get away with corn
it is a massive edge. I’m mixing it with crumbed boilie,
just crushing that up in the crusher. Again there’s not a fish swimming
that won’t eat crumbed boilie. You put the two together,
it gives a nice carpet on the bottom. There’s a bit
of Canadian pond weed out there, so some of it will disappear into
the weed, some of it will sit on top and it’s a brilliant combination
for this time of the year. I’ve started the session
with 20 medium Spombs and you would think it would take
quite a long time to get my first bite, but to counteract that I’m fishing three
high attract pop-ups over the top of it. And what I’ve found in the past
is once you put out bits and pieces, you can attract the fish in and if you’ve got something bright
sitting over the top like a cherry on top of the cake, you can get a bite before they’ve
eaten any of the loose feed at all. So just because
I’ve put that amount of bait out doesn’t mean to say
I wouldn’t get a quick bite. Well, that didn’t take long. About an hour after putting the bait in
and the left-hand rod is away. Got the old Red Baron up there
doing loop-the-loops behind us. I didn’t think I was going to get a bite
as quickly as this to be perfectly honest, but it just shows you
how the fish are responding to bait at this time of the year.
The water’s well above ten degrees now. It’s a mirror. I’m just using past experiences. The fish responded to bait
on the previous session. Daytime is such a good time
in the spring for a bite. The fish are so temperature controlled
at this time of the year and as the water’s warming up,
they’re starting to feed. As I’ve got that bite, the fish has charged across
in front of the other rods and picked up one of the other lines. So what I’ve done
is just undone the bail arm, taken the line out of the buzzer
so it’s not constantly going off. Having that slack line just enables me
to get the fish in without a problem. You can easily pull the hook out
if you’ve got another line attached. So it’s a good little tip. If you’re fishing on your own,
you pick up one of your other lines, just open the bail arm,
hopefully you’ll be able to play it in, untangle the line
once the fish is in the net. Come on, in you come. Get in that net. Bosh! Got him. Wicked! I always leave the fish in the net and get the rod back out
as quickly as possible because you never know how long
the feeding spell’s going to last. It was definitely the right thing to do as the second bite
came only minutes after the recast on exactly the same rod as the first. I didn’t rebait after the first bite and I think this definitely helped
the second bite happen even faster. The skill is reading the situation
on each session and then deciding
if more bait’s needed or not. What a way to start. A 17-pounder, absolute stunner. The other one was 14 and it just goes to show, you put the
effort in first thing in the morning, find the fish and you can make
a big lake like this seem pretty small. Proof of the pudding,
they are responding to the bait. The faster you notice patterns
emerging on your lake, the quicker you’re going
to be onto the fish as they move around
and what I’ve noticed here so far, I think because it’s shallow
you get action really quickly, find the fish first of all, get on them,
get out reasonably quietly, put a bit of bait out maybe. I’ve had a couple of bites really
quickly on the last couple of sessions and then it’s gone dead. Then the fish have turned up
in a completely different area, nowhere near where they should be and I think they’ve moved off
the angling pressure. So it’s worth really thinking about
why you’re not getting action as much as why are you getting action. Now it’s getting later in the day, I haven’t seen anything
out in front of me. I’ve been watching like a hawk
all afternoon, haven’t seen anything in front of me so
it’s probably time to bring the rods in, go up to the other end of the lake
where I’ve seen them before and just see
if they’ve moved up there quietly and if they’re happy up there,
showing and stuff and then I can move on to them
and maybe nick another bite. The major advantage of fishing off the
barrow is that you can move so quickly. If the first thing up is your bivvy,
then you’re sort of welded to that swim, and if fish start showing elsewhere
you’re probably not going to move. But doing what I’ve done today and just having everything
on top of the barrow ready to go, means that if they do
start showing elsewhere, and at this time of the year
the fish are highly nomadic, it means you can chase them around
and get on them straight away. I decided not to fish that night so
my rods were ready to go at first light. If I’d had rods in the water,
maybe over bait, I’d be less inclined to wind in
and cast at a showing fish. This way meant that I made
the absolute most of every show and when bites are hard to come by it can be the difference between
a blank and a fish in the net. The left rod went short where
I’d seen the fish the evening before and the other two went long after
seeing a fish just after first light, which is the best time to spot them. It’s really important to carry
a different range of lead sizes because you never know
the fishing you’re going to be doing, especially on a new water. I can be dinking it out like 20 yards
amongst loads of fish in shallow water or whacking it out, 120, 130,
to fish showing out in the middle. And having the Heli-Safe on
makes the whole thing so versatile, you can take the lead
on and off so easily, and it just means that you can get out
a distance if you want to, or be really quiet in the corners
at the same time. It’s been out there about an hour now. Pretty bleak conditions today and
not a lot of fish activity as a result. One of the rods cast out,
probably 110, and I’m wading out at least ten, has produced the first action
from this end of the lake. It just shows you how important it is
to keep your eyes peeled and put rods where the fish are. Get in that net. Bosh! Got him! 16lb 8oz fighting machine and I’ve just left him in the sling
for a little while just to recover. It’s a good idea to do that
when you’ve had an epic battle, just let them recover a bit
in the sling and then let them go. And while this fish has been waiting,
I’ve seen a fish show behind me on that bank where the wind’s
blowing into, which is no surprise. The fish on these big pits do seem
to follow the wind really quickly. Even though
I’ve had a bite out of this swim, it’s time to move and make the most
of the last few hours. As usual the gear stays in the car when
I got here at first light this morning. Did a circuit round the lake, saw three fish in completely different
areas of the lake, all off the back of the wind,
but most importantly, one was off the point
that we call Hippo’s Point now, that I started fishing at the beginning
of the last session where you saw me. And what’s happened in between times,
I’ve been back twice more. One time it was bitterly cold
even though it was well into spring. We had minus temperatures at night,
everything was frozen solid. I’d chased the fish around for two days and managed to scratch one fish
on a single right up the other end and then last time I came,
the weather had improved dramatically and again
the fish showed off that point, but more on this side
of the lake where we are now. I started off just fishing singles
and then basically put some bait out to where I thought
the wind was going to be blowing. It was a slow start
but it just got better and better and for the first time
the fish really responded to the bait and I think I had four takes
in the first couple of days and then on the final morning,
I had 12 bites. I managed to snare three 30s in that
session as well, which was amazing. One of them
I had to photograph on the mat because my camera
had run out of battery and it really came alive and the fish
really responded to the bait. So even though I haven’t seen fish
in front of this swim, this is where
I finished the last session. I’m fishing at exactly the same range,
so it’s 80 yards off the bank. I’m wading out
basically four rod lengths, so it’s 16 rod lengths
I’m casting from here. It’s just pretty nondescript out there, pretty flat, there’s a little bit
of weed coming up in places but it’s fishable pretty much everywhere because I’m using that helicopter rig
with the hook link sliding up so it comes to rest
on top of whatever’s out there. And I’ve started off with bait again because in the past,
chasing fish around has produced bites, it’s a very labour-intensive
kind of fishing, but I’ve not really built
any sort of hit and that last session,
the fish really responded to the bait, wading out, putting more bait out
with a throwing stick and the bites are coming an hour later
and it just built and built and unfortunately I ran out of time
and I had to come home. But with the wind blowing this way, it’s another northerly that’s sort of
north-easterly at the moment, the same as it was last time I was here. It’s still really cold
for the time of year, but I would imagine although
they’ve showed off that point first thing this morning, they tend to move on the wind
especially as the day warms up. And of course in the spring it’s getting
warmer and warmer all the time and they end up out in front of here. So I’ve set my stall out,
put a bit of bait out. I put three rods out about the same
range, two at 16, one at 17 rod lengths. The furthest rod
is the one most downwind, so basically
the other two rods are shorter so that that rod
can pick up fish as well, the other rod’s not cutting it off. I’ve sprayed a couple of hundred baits
over the top of it. Three little Mystic Spice pop-ups,
that’s how we’re going to start, and if we see fish showing elsewhere,
obviously I’ll move on to them. When going on to a new venue,
I recommend you stick with a bait that you’ve caught
loads of fish on before. In this situation
I’m using a prototype bait that I’ve used
for the last couple of years. It’s a new one by Mainline, basically it’s suited to cold water but
fishes really well all through the year. The worst thing you can do
is go onto a new lake with a new bait, never caught a fish on it before
and when you’re not catching then the doubts start coming in – is it
the bait, is it the spot, is it the rig? So when you’re starting somewhere
new, go in with complete confidence. Yes! Come on… Get in that net, get in that net! Bosh, got him! Even though I’ve had a bite, it’s still
sharp so I’m not going to change it. The beauty of this rig is
I can put another bait on really easily and get it back out there again. I’ve just transferred the fish
into the sling in the water. That will stay out there
until I get the rod back in position. I won’t put any more bait out
for the time being. There’s enough out there
to get another bite, but it’s all about now getting the rod
back out onto the spot as quickly as you possibly can
with minimum disturbance. There he is.
Rod’s back out on the money. This one goes 20lb on the button. Really good to get off the mark quickly and it looks good for more,
the wind’s still pumping in here. I’ve not seen any fish show, but this is all the indication I need
that they are in this area. Certain waters definitely suit
certain kinds of bait application. I’ve tried spombing on here,
crumb boilie and corn, a brilliant combination
especially in the early spring, and I’ve caught over it
and caught quickly, but I’ve not managed
to build a hit of fish and I’ve often found
that after a couple of quick bites the fish have moved off
to another part of the lake, sometimes against the wind, and it just felt like
I wasn’t getting it dead right. In the last session the fish
really responded to the same bait, the new bait from Mainline,
the fibrous winter bait. They were definitely liking that bait, but I was applying it with a throwing
stick rather than the Spomb and it seemed like
the results got better and better. Being able to wade out 20 yards
and throwing stick the baits out, I’m only having to go
sort of 65, 70 yards then. I can get four or five baits
in the Eazi-Stik at one time, basically leaning into them. Because I’m out in the water
and there’s a tendency to sky the baits where you’re trying to avoid
hitting the water with a stick, so you notice my body
is actually leaning forwards and I’m trying to throw them forwards
as well as up and that’s keeping them quite low
against the wind and stopping them
coming back in my face. Regarding amounts of bait, well, that’s really dictated
by how many fish are in the lake. So this is pretty unknown, this one. I would say at least 100 fish,
maybe as many as 150. I’ve been putting out
probably a kilo at the start, and then another 100 or so baits
after each two or three fish. But bear in mind,
in a shallow lake like this, the bait makes as much disturbance
as a cast and sometimes it’s better to wait and see if you can get two or
three bites over a big spread of bait, which is what
the throwing stick creates, rather than putting bait out
after every single fish. And also the time of year
can make a big difference. When the fish have spawned
and they’re really hungry, the height of summer
when the water’s warm, if conditions are good,
there’s a good blow on, you can get away with loads of bait. Springtime, it’s blowing a northerly,
it’s not brilliant weather conditions and as a result you just need
to hang back on the bait because you can definitely
put too much in. So it’s also worth
keeping an eye on the birds. If you’ve got ducks diving in your swim
they’re picking loads of baits up, it’s obviously still there,
there’s no need to put more in. If you’re getting loads of takes
and the takes dry up, maybe it’s time to add a bit more. So it’s a case of reading the situation, using the stock of fish
to dictate how much you use and choosing a baiting approach
that suits the water that you’re on. Completely out of the blue,
another bite. A duck’s just flying
over the top of the line there, just praying this one doesn’t come off. I had a bite
pretty soon after that early bite and there was loads of weed on the line
and the fish just came off. When you’ve lost one,
the next one you really need to get in. Come on, big fella, in you come. Yes! Get in! Yeah, what a pristine fish. 26lb 8oz, big thick wrist to the tail,
shoulders on him as well. I’m sure he’ll be really big one day. And I’ve got the rod
back out on the spot already while this one was in the sling
and no bait is going out and that is absolutely key
at the moment. I put bait out after losing the fish
earlier on and nothing happened until this one came along,
sort of five or six hours later. And it’s been all daytime bites, so I reckon I’ve probably scared
the fish away in the middle of the day. So three rods are back out again,
no bait’s going in the swim and we’ll see if we can nick a few more
bites on those rods before it gets dark. The Kurv Shank hook
basically comes from a fly hook that my fishing mates and I were using
probably about 20 years ago now and the reason we liked it
was because it had a straight point and a really aggressively
curved shank and an in-turned eye. The problem at the time, they were
bronze because they were fly hooks. They had a round cross section
so they weren’t flat forged, which basically means they’re
squashed on two faces and I like that because I think it stops the hook
from twisting inside its own hole. Basically it butts up against the flat
edge and I think it stays put better. So when we brought them out,
obviously we made them flat forged, and we kept the shape
almost exactly the same. We improved the point, made the barb even smaller
than it was already on the fly hooks and obviously
gave them a very low reflective finish, which is very, very smooth, a PTFE
finish, which penetrates really easily. The situations I use them in, well,
pretty much anywhere, to be honest. The spinner rig that I’ve been using
over the last sort of 12 to 24 months suits it perfectly
and hooks it so well in that situation, sits up pretty much upright,
but it’s just cocked over like a claw ready to grab the flesh. I normally use a size 4 with probably
a 14mm pop-up in that situation. I’ve used it on various other
pop-up rigs as well. If you’re just using a coated hook link
and you strip a bit away near the hook and just have a soft hair,
that’s worked really well for me with a little tiny bit of shrink tube
just off the eye of the hook to flip it over and help it catch hold. And then when fishing with
bottom baits, I tend to use it
either with IQ straight through, and the IQ D-Rig
really centres around that hook, and then if it’s really snaggy, I move
over to materials like the Hybrid Stiff, which is much more robust
because it’s got a braided core. I fish that D-Rig style again, tie my favourite whipping knot
onto the hook first, then a tiny little swivel goes on,
a Micro Rig Swivel, and then you’d simply tie on
the knotless knot, making sure you go out the eye
of the hook on the point side. That is so important, that helps
the hook flip over and catch hold. And more recently, rather than
using shrink tube to finish it off and help it catch hold even more, I’ve gone onto using the Kickers and obviously I use the one that slides
most easily over the eye of the hook. I use size 2s a lot of the time when I’m fishing with slow-sinking
bottom baits. I like a big hook, I think
it snags faster in the fish’s mouth, and the big hooks nowadays
are still so sharp there’s no real disadvantage
to using them and I think they don’t know it’s a big
hook until it’s actually in their mouth. And then with pop-ups
I tend to use one slightly smaller, but still probably
on the large side of the spectrum, so a size 4 most of the time, and again
because it’s hidden underneath the bait where it’s popped up, I don’t think
it’s as visible to the fish and if they’re seeing the pop-up
before they’re seeing the hook, you’re snaring them. So the situations I probably
wouldn’t use a Kurv Shank in, if it’s hellishly snaggy
or hellishly weedy I wouldn’t use a standard Kurv Shank. There I might go up
to the Kurv Shank XX, but for me personally I like a
beak-pointed hook in that situation, so probably a Wide Gape X
would be the one I’d go to, but for most other situations, I would
use a Kurv Shank as my first choice. The wind completely died overnight
and no bites came. The weather man said it was going
to blow up the other end today and that was enough motivation
to pack up and get ahead of them. Approaching a new water
is always exciting. I really enjoy the learning process
and the getting to the point where you know you can catch
every single time you go. And the lead up to that point
is so, so interesting, the learning curve is so steep,
and to be honest when I get to a point where I think I’m going to catch one, I know I’m going to cast at that tree
at that distance and I’m going to get a bite, then really the magic’s gone for me and
I’m sort of going through the motions. So that building a picture
of how the lake lives and breathes, where the fish show
on certain conditions, and sort of second guessing them
and getting ahead of them, that’s a real massive buzz for me. Lovely. There’s two big ‘uns
just done that across the spot. Just throw a bit more crumb in. I can see there’s probably,
must be 10 or 12 decent fish just out slightly further, but I suspect they’ll be back in
on this really quickly. I’ve changed the rig
from what I was casting out there basically because I think
when the fish are in the edge, having a pop-up on is a little bit too
blatant, the water’s very clear here. I’m throwing in big bits of crumb,
not little tiny bits of crumb, but bigger bits of crumb boilie;
halves, three-quarters, quarters. I’ve got a chopped-down
white wafter on, which is a nice, just slightly different colour
to what I’m feeding and that’s got the Buttercorn Goo
soaked into it and I’ve moved over to a COG lead, so you’re picking the lead up
from the centre of gravity, so very, very efficient hooker of fish. I’ve still got the spinner rig on
with a Boom hook link, probably about five inches long. There’s putty in the middle of that to
hold everything flat down on the bottom, no tubing because
I’m just swinging it out, and a couple of bits of putty
on the line just to hold everything
flat to the bottom. When the fish are in close like this
they’re very, very jumpy, and you want to pin everything
to the bottom, use plenty of putty, and think about your hook bait. If it’s too buoyant
and it’s wafting about too much, they can just leave it. We’ve seen that
from the Underwater films. But I’ve put
a little bit of lead wire in it just to hold it
that little bit closer to the bottom, trimmed it off
so it looks like one of the chops, so it’s not just a round boilie,
and we’re going to stick with that. Hopefully manage to get bait out
without the swans coming in and seeing it being thrown out, so hopefully we’ll leave the fish sort
of unbothered and we’ll get a chance. Gotcha! Looks like he’s nailed as well. Come on, get in that net. Get in that net. Bosh! Got him!
Yes, success! Just under 12lb, this one. A proper young fish,
loads of growing in it, great shape
and again success on that rig. So we’re going to put some more
chops out, put the rod back out again and see if we can snare
one of them big ones because there are bigger fish milling
about at the back of the area. In particular I love big lakes and this one at Broom
is the perfect example of that. It just feels wilder,
you feel like you’re more out in nature and a big windswept pit,
big white horses running down the lake, the big waves coming down. You’re standing out in the water
waiting to cast and getting blown all over the place,
I just love all that. Little lakes, I do it but I always feel
like every time I tread on a twig or crunch on a bit of gravel,
I’m just scaring them all away and every mis-cast
is pushing them up the other end. Small lake fish seem to be very,
very moody and very aware of human activity, whereas on big lakes you seem to be
able to get away with more. And it’s not like I had to fish out
at long distance all the time, some of the spots here
I’m swinging it in, literally, it’s under the rod tip and there are
spots here that are 30 yards out, 70 yards out, 120 yards out. So massive variants in the style
of fishing that you’re doing, which I really enjoy. I don’t like that
sort of one-dimensional, I’m definitely going to be doing this
and that only. As my fishing’s evolved, I’ve enjoyed that I can do
loads of different kinds of fishing on the same lake and it always
keeps you guessing… Is that one? That was one just off
the back of the spot, come on! That is going to go, that left-hand rod. Also on places like this, obviously because
it’s not really been fished properly, you never know what it’s going to be and I’ve had
all shapes and sizes of fish. It’s great for the future of the fishery because you’ve got fish
from 3lb up to 33lb, so you’ve got
loads of different year classes. Maybe there’s no 40-pounders
in here at the moment, but for the future, this place
is going to be 40 and 50-pounders and to be around here at the start
is pretty special. That show over the left-hand area was obviously at least one feeding fish
getting on the bait and it wasn’t long
before that rod was away. Shows over baited spots
on big open lakes are often a precursor
to getting a bite. Come on, get in that net,
get in that net! Bosh! Got him! Come on! When you go onto a new water, mapping out the contours
of all the swims is absolutely key, so you know exactly how many
rod lengths it is to the bite spots. I write absolutely everything down so
if I come back on here six months later, I know exactly where to cast without having to put the marker float
through the swim when the fish are about. And being able to cast a marker
a long way is absolutely key. I see a lot of people
with marker float setups. The rod’s too soft,
the reel’s not very good, the marker braid’s too thick
so it won’t cast a long way and it limits you so much. So my setup is really balanced and it means I can cast
a Drop Zone Marker Float 130, 140 yards into the wind. So first of all the rod, it’s a Longbow
DF X45 Spod n Marker. That’s coupled with a Basia reel
which casts absolutely miles. It’s loaded up with Marker Braid
which is super, super thin, and to take the force of the cast
I’m using a 50lb Arma-Kord leader and being
that little bit thicker as well, it stops the marker float
from tangling in the air. There’s nothing worse
than finding a great spot, you try and let the float up
and it’s tangled and you have to start all over again. The shape of the float
is also absolutely key and you’ll notice
the Drop Zone Marker Floats are actually fatter at the bottom
than they are at the top and that makes them really,
really stable in the air. They’re also very, very buoyant,
so when you cast a long way, it’s still actually pulling that braid
as you’re taking it off the reel. The flight on the top is also key. Very, very visible, you can take them
off and change them for other colours. So if the light conditions change
you can always see the top of the float, but it’s the visibility that really
makes it stand out from other floats. Lead-wise, I normally use probably
a 3oz lead going up to a 4 or 4.5oz lead if I’m casting into the wind
long distances, and I’ll swap between either
a Probe lead or the new Marker leads with the prongs on. What I’m finding on this particular lake
is there’s very little clean bottom, so if you’ve got the Marker lead with
the prongs on it’s immediately locked up and when you wind in there’s loads
of dead Canadian all around it. If you find a clear area, and that one
with the prongs on actually slides, you know it is super clear and that’s a brilliant place
to mark down in your little log so that you know
when you go back into that swim exactly where the clear spots are. If you’re trying to bump the lead
through weed, I’d go over to a Probe lead. Again, it’s uncoated so you feel a lot
as you drag it back, but you can actually bump it through
the weed and it not get so caught up, so it’s a case
of changing the marker lead depending on the situation
that you’re faced with. And then baiting up-wise, I’ve got
a Longbow Infinity DF Spod Rod, which is even heavier, even more
powerful than the Spod n Marker. That’ll put a Spomb out
as far as I can get a marker float, and that’s coupled
with an Emblem Spod Reel, which is loaded with Spod Braid which
is just as thin as the Marker Braid. It’s bright green in colour and
that’s basically so you can put it out, leave it on the surface and if you’ve
got seagulls diving on your area, you can sometimes put the spod out,
and then throwing stick over the top and the actual brightness of it
actually keeps the seagulls away. I use a 30lb Arma-Kord leader
in that situation, again tied with a four turn water knot
so it’s a really, really small knot, and that together just flies
off that rod, and like I say, I can get it 130, 140 yards
even into the wind. So if you’re looking
to move onto a big water like Broom, you need to have a balanced setup so that you can map the swim
and bait up at long distance. It was another gorgeous
spring morning at Broom and it looked set to be
another scorcher of a day, so I baited the long area
with a few more boilies because I expected the fish
to start feeding again as the sun warmed the shallow water. It’s also a good time
to wind in one of the long rods and put it back
on the short spot to the left because the fish here seemed to be
coming in closer during the day than they did at night. For the first time this spring
I started to get action on the long areas at night, which says to me fish are responding
more and more to the bait, as the water temperature increases
running up to spawning time. Night bites are a great indicator that you can use more bait
in the warmer water. The fish here
come in all shapes and sizes just like this upper-20 ghost mirror. I never get bored
of catching such gorgeous fish. Off you go. Yes! By mid-morning
the south-easterly had sprung up again and it looked absolutely smack on
for more action. I’d worked out that by walking well left I could steer the fish
away from the other rods. It really is such a buzz
when you start to suss out a new water and you just know it’s going to happen. Gotcha! This is a spinner rig. It’s the one that’s been catching
all the fish for me on these particular sessions at Broom, and basically
you can cast it onto any lake bed. It doesn’t tangle and it’s very,
very aggressive at hooking the fish. As I’m moving around here sometimes I’m casting into maybe 3ft of
water onto gravel and I’m moving into another swim
and it’s 6ft deep and there’s a bit of weed on the bottom, and this will basically present
over all those different situations. So starting off with the hook link
and the hook in particular, it’s a size 4 Kurv, my favourite
pattern, very sharp straight point, sweeping bend, in-turned eye
and coupled with this rig it makes it turn over
and catch hold really aggressively. And the essence of the rig
is the Quick Change Ring Swivel that it’s attached to. All I’ve done there is opened up
that little crook on the ring swivel, slid the hook on and then covered it up
with a medium-sized Kicker. Because that’s got
an in-turned eye effect, it makes the hook flip over
and catch hold even quicker. To stop the bait coming off the hook
I’ve got one of the Hook Beads and then the bait is basically
tied onto a Micro Ring Swivel, so like a size probably 25 swivel
just pulls into there just neatly. I use a bit of bait floss,
basically pull that through the bait and then tie a succession
of overhand granny knots around the hair stop at the top and you can cast that miles
and it won’t come off. And then going down the hook link,
it’s basically crimped on. This material is called Boom
because it creates a boom section. It’s fluorocarbon, tinted,
so it’s almost invisible in the water, and then basically
it’s crimped at either end. So the crimps are double barrelled. You go through one barrel, around the
ring swivel through the other barrel, pull it up really tight
into the jaws of the crimp tool and then just squeeze it down
and that’s it, done. And the secret of crimping is the material
you put through the crimp must be as close to the size
of the crimp as possible. So it should only just fit through
and these are 0.6mm crimps and the material is 0.55mm diameter, so
it’s the perfect fit for this situation. And then at the other end, again it’s crimped
onto a size 11 ring swivel and that is sliding
up and down the leadcore. Now before we get onto the lead system, how the pop-up sinks is really,
really important to me. So you’ve got quite a lot
of Dark Matter putty, mould it round that top crimp
and I want my pop-up sinking fast. And the reason for that is, one,
I don’t want them swaying around as the fish come into feed. If the pop-up’s very, very light,
they can come up off the bottom and look really unnatural,
so I want them pinned to the deck. And the other thing is,
if it sinks really quickly it’s much more likely to find its way
through the fronds of weed and down to the bottom rather than getting hung up maybe three
or four inches off the bottom, and looking really out of place. So always overweight them with this rig. And then going on to the lead system,
it’s a very short leadcore leader. This one’s probably only about 2.5ft long and at one end
I’ve got the Heli-Safe System. That’s really, really key
in this situation. You’ve got big fish
in really shallow water that are fighting absolutely like demons
– you need to be dumping the lead. If the lead was staying on, especially
while I’m fishing at long range, it creates a horrible angle,
gets caught in the weed and that could end up
pulling the hook out. So the Heli-Safe in this situation
is fished to dump the lead. If there was no weed or snags
or anything out there at all, then I would consider keeping it on and there’s a little collar
to put into that to stop the whole thing compressing
and that keeps the lead on. But in this situation, when the fishing
is tough and it really matters, it’s worth dumping the lead. Lead size, I’m using anything
between 2.5oz, if I’m just dinking it in, flicking it
out, maybe 20, 30 yards, the lightest lead I can get away with
to minimise the disturbance, and then I’m just moving up
to a heavier and heavier lead depending on how far I’m fishing. So when I’m fishing 70 yards, I’ve got a Helicopter lead
on there of 3oz. That’s nice and flat on the bottom, so feeding the lead down is really,
really key in my fishing. I need to know that maybe
there’s some weed out there or it’s clear, but it’s not too weedy, and with a lead like that,
it just tells you that little bit more. If I’m going for real distance, then I’ll go for a 3.5
or maybe even a 4oz, and then sometimes
move over to a distance lead because they cut through the air
that bit better. So it makes it so easy to change because you just compress
that Heli-Safe, take the lead off
and slide another one on. And then the other key aspect of this,
up the leadcore there’s a No-Trace Bead. So you’ve got
a little tiny tapered collar and on that is a bead
with a split in it. Basically what will happen,
if the fish is dragging the lead around it will pop that bead off and it means the hook link can slide up
off the top of the leadcore and basically all the fish is left with
is that little tiny hook link. And I think when the line goes slack, that’s when the fish
can get rid of the hook. So I don’t know how they do it, but basically the hook
will eventually find its way out and then the fish is completely free. So having a No-Trace System like that
for me is absolutely mandatory. You can use pretty much any pattern
of hook with this rig, especially
if it’s got an in-turned eye. I like the Wide Gapes as well. They help fishing the pop-up
really close to the lake bed and in situations
where there’s a lot of food out there, the water’s very shallow
and there’s not so much weed, that can be a real advantage. Length-wise on the hook link,
I like really short hook links, and sometimes when I’ve been fishing I’ve been fishing 3” hook links
and absolutely nailing the fish. In this particular session
I’ve dropped a couple of fish and I’ve lengthened the hook link
and got better hook holds. So what you’ll find is the way the fish
are feeding, the weather conditions, how pressured they feel,
will all change the way they feed and sometimes you have to muck about
with the length of the hook link to suit that situation. So my advice
is to keep loads of booms tied up and then you can swap from one
to the other really, really easily, and once you’ve had a fish, you’re basically sliding that Kicker
up out the way, sliding the hook off,
putting another one on. Sometimes I even re-use the same bait if it’s not been out in the water too
long and you are back fishing again. So it’s something that really
incorporates the Quick Change System, works brilliantly
as a single or over bait, and you can cast it onto any lake bed. If you use Heli-Safes a lot like I do, every now and again you will lose a lead
when you shouldn’t and what’s basically happened
is grit’s got inside it, it’s held it open, so the gate
is basically unlatched and as you hit the clip,
the lead just falls off. It’s a very, very easy fix. Take the cap off of it, pull it apart,
just give it a good blow, take all the little bits of grit
off of it just with your fingers, put it back together again and
it will work absolutely fine. And if like me using it with leadcore, you’ll find eventually the leadcore
will start to wear down as it exits the Heli-Safe. Basically take it apart,
cut the little tiny swivel off the end, resplice it back on again so
you’re on to a fresh bit of leadcore, and it’s perfect again
for the next few months. It’s over there. Feels big. Completely different fight, this is. It’s a big ghost common. Come on, get in that net,
get in that net! Bosh! Got him! Yes! Come on! What a fish. I think it’s a 40, you know.
It’s massive. Yes! It is a 40-pounder. It’s a good 40 as well. 43.12. Amazing, amazing. What a lake. Check that out.
What an amazing, amazing carp. Just totally and utterly blown away
by this fish, and if this doesn’t light your fire
for fishing somewhere new, then nothing’s going to. Just so, so interesting
finding out about a new water and getting surprises like this along
the way is just the icing on the cake. If you’re going to approach a new water, the first thing I would say is use
your eyes to tell you where to fish. And I know that seems obvious, but so
many people jump into a swim that’s hot, or one that someone’s told them
has done fish before, they’re not looking for the fish and as a consequence it makes
the lake seem really difficult. If you get there early in the morning
and you leave your gear in the car, you lap and lap and lap the lake
until you find them showing, it makes a big lake like this
seem so much smaller. And when you know
you’re not going to get a bite, 24 hours into the session,
if you know it’s not going to happen, you need to be on your toes again
and you need to be moving. And the more you fish,
the more you get that feeling. You just know it’s not going to happen
and if you feel that in your gut, you’ve got to be off
looking for the fish elsewhere. I really pay loads of attention
to the weather as well. I’ve got the weather apps on my phone,
I’m going through them all the time. If you look at the weather
and it’s turned around to a westerly or a southerly, it’s gone low pressure,
it’s going to be really mild, you know then
the fish are going to be more active, maybe you take more bait with you, or you stand at the end of the wind
and look for fish showing in the wind, because that’s where
there’s going to be more oxygen and the water’s nice and warm. All those things can really help you and I look at the weather
in between sessions as well, not just when I’m there, so you can see
what’s been happening in between. If there’s been a really cold snap
or something and not a lot’s been out,
then maybe the next time you go back you just fish singles
for a little while, you don’t put any bait in because the fish have sort of
been knocked back a little bit, so paying attention to the weather
is absolutely key. The fish here
are very affected by the wind. We’ve got the wind trickling in here now and it’s no surprise that I’ve had loads
of action in this swim and even when the wind is cold I’ve
noticed that the fish are moving on it. Not all lakes are the same
but that’s something to record and basically keep in the memory banks, so when you come on here again
the next spring, you know exactly
what the fish are going to be doing. And recording what you’re finding out
is so, so important. My phone is absolutely full with
different files for different lakes, of how many wraps it is
to all the spots, what trees I’m casting at,
when I’ve got the bites, day or night. What are fish like in the spring, what are fish like
in the summer, the autumn, the winter? Everything’s written down
so I can refer back to it and it’s amazing how much
you actually forget and you read back and you think, oh, right, that swim
does really well in September, I’ll keep an eye on that. And that information
just takes you to another level and you can basically work out a lake
much quicker by recording everything
that’s going on. Using the Distance Sticks is an absolutely essential part
of my modern-day fishing. I really don’t know
how I got by without them and I know our ones are probably
two-and-a-half times as expensive as the average ones, but in my opinion,
they’re ten times as good. And I was really concerned
about the retail price of them when the Product Development guys
told me, but having that auger point so you can
screw them into the ground with a T-bar, having the spirit level so you know
you’ve got them perfectly straight, and also the grooves in them,
which is Jim at JAG’s idea to stop too much line coming off, all of those features combined
are just an absolute Godsend and I could never see myself going back
to the original type of distance stick. You’ll see me
wearing a cap and Polaroids for virtually all of my fishing, even
on days like today when it’s not sunny. Your vision
through a set of Polaroid sunglasses is so much better than standard vision. You can pick out the rig in the air
better, but most importantly, you’re going
to be spotting the fish better. And by wearing a peaked cap,
it takes the light out, just covers the glasses up
that bit better. Sometimes you’re better off
to shield your eyes as well to stop the light coming in
from the sides and a decent pair
of polarised sunglasses like these are absolutely essential for me. Spotting fish,
especially on big lakes like this, is the absolute key to getting bites.
I basically couldn’t fish without them. The thing that spurs me on
to keep fishing hard all the time, bearing in mind I’ve been doing it
over 30 years now, is the winning, the succeeding. You can never guarantee what’s
going to be taking your hook bait, but the size of the fish for me
is not really the primary consideration. It’s getting it right on the day, working out what needs to be done
in that particular session, and being consistent
session after session. That’s really what pushes me to fish
as hard as I can every single time I go.

67 comments on “Korda Carp Fishing Masterclass 5: Approaching a new water | Danny Fairbrass | Free DVD 2018

  1. Not enough new products shown. You make the best tackle in the business, got all this new stuff I had no idea you had. Be nice for you to show all these like you used to in the tackle tactics and tips videos 👍

  2. Very interesting deffo will be changing my approach this year and hopefully will get a few extra fish

  3. Amazing…. You do everything to NOT harm the fish….
    And than you gonna use that stupid drop off system, that is poisoning the water.
    I think that is not acceptable. 🙁
    Now it looks that you rather kill fish in the long run, than lose one now.
    And even now you are losing fish in the weeds, because the idea that if the fish is losing the lead, it will come to the surface by dropping the lead doesn't allways work.
    Well……, as long as you are selling lead, right.
    Many, many and many more people are looking at these movies and duplicate what you are doing…
    Imaging how many kilo's are in the water allready by this idea that you are promoting…
    You should be a roll model, but you are not….
    I rather lose 10 fish than losing one lead that i allready refuse to use anymore.
    Maybe it is time that you use alternative's for lead.
    You will not hear me when you lose a stone or something like that…
    Except maybe to say; '' Well done, old chap!''

  4. Approaching a new water?? You’ve fished it before, know the fish are young, know that they responded to bait the last session??? Not a new water then is it old honey G

  5. Ich bin etwas verwundert. Sehr langweilig, man holt mich nicht ab auf eine Reise , ein Abenteuer. Das war letztes Jahr viel besser und spannender . Wo sind die Big Lakes ? …evtl mal bei der großen Konkurrenz gucken …

  6. New water but yet you seem to know exactly what you need to plus you’ve been there before… surprised nobody involved noticed this mistake

  7. Why let fish recover in the sling so when you get it out for a pic it flaps around all over the place, take the pic get it back in the water! That’s the least stressful for the carp

  8. This lake is so similar to many of our lakes in South Africa. Unknown numbers of big wild carp in big open waters. Only pity we have is most of the bank outside of the fishing area is out of bounds.

  9. I have recently seen a lot of anglers fishing with their rod tips pointing up whilst on the pod/bank sticks, rather than down towards the water. Are there specific reasons for either way of positioning the rod?

  10. are u crimping the iq to the swivel ? the spinning rig how are u getting the swivel on the hook,finally wats yr whipping knot,ive been out of the scene due to ilnes looks like need to brush up on fig technnology im sure my bait will still catch ,,thanks in advance or this and yr many years doing these vids ,sharing and helping ppl, nice one DF keep it up

  11. I tried to speak to Danny yesterday at the northern angling show and was totally egnored was going to ask him for tips about fishing in France as I’m going in August this year I was let down to have bumped into one of my carp fishing stars and for him not being who I thort he was,completely let down 😞

  12. Prob gonna start at 10feet so i need a new set of rods… after 11 i move further to 40 yards so i need a new set of rods and if the wind picks up in the afternoon i need a new set of rods to reach that 80 yards mark…And without a couple of DF's i look like a fool. Further more without Mainline baits i might as well stay in & look You Tube…Up to the next BS Class

  13. approaching a new water ?? "oh i been here a couple of times"…… its NOT a new lake then ! [email protected] and what makes this a "superclass" ?? cos it says korda ? Bring back Ali Hamidi & Adam Penning

  14. Hello KORDA doing all this camo tubing and line colours to hide the line is all well and good but you guys have forgotten one thing.
    The hook can also be changed in colour to brown-sliver-green to also camo it – you need to electro plat the steel before you cut out the hooks to the colours you need please can you do this -as all your videos are the same but never do hook camo, this stands out more than the line and if you make a solid plastic hook which is see thought will also camo hooks

  15. He seems without doubt , on another level as far as his knowledge , talent and understanding of fishing . what makes me cringe about the people who want to fish for carp is the "buzzin " "get in the net " I wanna be part of the image rubbish .

  16. Hi Danny, I am a beginner in carping, I enjoy watching your videos, I like it very much, please turn on Russian subtitles on YouTube. thank . Sergei

  17. Let me tell you Danny Fairbrass We can’t all afford top end gear ! You talk as if we all have the promotion gear you have readily available ! We haven’t !!!

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