Claire Corlett

Fish Food, Fish Tanks, and More
Korda Carp Fishing Masterclass 5 – Deep Lakes | Danny Fairbrass | Free DVD 2018

Korda Carp Fishing Masterclass 5 – Deep Lakes | Danny Fairbrass | Free DVD 2018

Welcome to the Deep Water Masterclass. We are up at Embryo South Ings in Hull. We’re here because
it is a very, very deep complex. This particular lake,
this is Lakes One and Two, this goes down to about 48ft
and Lake Three goes down to over 50. But this fish is starting
to inch through the marginal weed, so I’m going to shut up,
concentrate on getting him in and then hopefully show you the prize. It kicked, there he is. I thought it had come off then. The first one of deep water. Bosh! Got him! What an absolutely gorgeous fish
to open our account at South Ings and what we’re going to do now is
backtrack to the start of the session and show you how to map out the swim because knowing what you’re fishing on
in very deep water is absolutely key. You don’t want to be fishing
on the sheer cliff face, you’re going to find a nice bit
of flat bottom in the right depth and then the runs will start happening. Selecting a spot to fish on a deep lake is massively different
from a shallow lake. Often I find that fish show over
really deep water on deep lakes and you can cast at a showing fish
and you’re in 30, 40 feet of water and you’re not going to get a bite. So using a marker float
is absolutely key on deep lakes because the depth
and how flat the bottom is makes a huge difference to whether
you’re going to get a bite or not. So the trick on deep lakes
is to use two markers. So my spod rod turns into a marker rod
at the start of the session. They’re both set up exactly the same. I’m using the new balsa marker floats
which are really, really buoyant, quite a bit smaller
so they don’t make as much splash, they don’t fly back up the line
when you’re casting out so they don’t tangle and I’m using the little tiny stems that
come in the Adjustable Zig Kits. They let the float up perfectly and a 3oz pronged Marker lead
on each rod. First of all I’ll cast out to an area where I know bites have come from
before and on this particular session, what I’ve done is put one float out
at 15 rod lengths, let the float up, found it’s 22ft there, and then I’ve kept that
as a point of reference and cast the second marker rod around
the float to see how deep it is past it, how deep it is short of it. So to start off with
I’ve gone a rod length past the float, so 16 rod lengths, its hit the clip,
fallen down, hit the bottom. I felt it’s nice and firm there, pulled it back a little bit,
it’s lovely and clear, and let it up. And it’s the same depth
as it is at 15 rod lengths, so it’s still 22ft deep. So I’ve got a lovely flat bit there
that is a whole rod length long, which is a long way
when you’re on a very deep lake because often
the depths drop away really quickly and if you don’t know
what you’re fishing on you can be on a really,
really steep slope, which you’re never
going to get a bite on. So I’ve then pulled the float back
and then let it up again and it’s come up
almost next to the other float and again the depth is the same, 22ft. I pulled it back again. It’s come up
again as 22ft, maybe a little bit more, pulled it back again
so I’m about a rod length short of where I first cast the other float
and it’s a little bit deeper there and it shows on the underwater map
that’s been done of this lake that there’s a little tiny trough between where I’m casting to
and the bank. So as I’m pulling the float back,
I’m pulling it down into that trough and really you don’t want
to be fishing on the slope that’s coming down towards you
because the line angle is horrible. The fish are coming into contact with
the line when they’re trying to feed. Really you want to be looking
for a flat bit. So what I know there is
don’t fish short of 15 rod lengths. I can fish longer,
but I don’t really want to fish shorter. And then what I’ve done
is cast at 16 rod lengths progressively further right, until
I found the pinnacle that’s out there. So there’s literally like a gravelly
hump that comes up off the bottom and it’s actually 15ft deep
at the top of it. Now you might think that’s
an absolutely brilliant place to fish, but as you pull the float back
it drops down really quickly. Within a rod length
it’s gone from 15ft to 23ft, so a really, really steep slope and that is not
where you want to be fishing. Your line angle can be terrible
if it’s a really, really small spot, all your bait can run off the sides of
it and just leave your hook bait on top. If it was a bigger plateau,
so if I cast further to the right and it was still 15ft
further to the right, it’s still 15ft, then maybe it’s worth fishing on, but I know from the underwater map
here that it’s a really tiny pinnacle. So what I’ve decided to do,
is fish all three rods at 16 rod lengths and that’s just before it drops away
into deep water and two of them are quite close together and another one
is about a rod length to the right. So by casting around it’s probably been two or three hours
of casting in the swim, I know exactly what’s out there,
I know that I’m fishing on flat ground, I know I’m just before the drop off,
that’s a brilliant place to start. And this sort of stuff that I would do
probably January, February time when there’s nobody here, if I was
going to fish this lake all the time, I’d do all my markering then
when the weed’s really low, I’ll just mark all the distances,
I write everything down in my phone, I know exactly what I’m casting at
on the far bank, the left-hand rod
is where the house is, the right-hand rod
is just to the left of the tall tree and the middle rod’s between them. Using two marker floats
at the start of a session, or the start of when you’re going
to do a campaign, is absolutely key. It tells you so much and it gives you
an edge over everybody else. Perfect. I’m going to put out
about 25 medium-size Spombs. I’m using chopped boilie,
the new Mainline Fibre basically because I used it
last time I was here. I did really well on it on Lake Three,
so it was the obvious thing to bring. I’ve got a few of the pellets. The fish get fed here
by the syndicate managers to get the growth rates up
as much as possible. It’s a rule on here that in the summer
you can’t use particle because you’re basically
giving the fish salad when you want to be giving them
meat and potatoes. They’re not going to grow on salad so
that’s why it’s pellet and boilie only. So I’ve halved the baits with the Kutter because I didn’t know
how steep the slope was going to be that I was fishing on and half baits are
brilliant for these kind of places because they just don’t roll down. If I was fishing a steeper slope
with round boilies, half of them could end up rolling down
the slope away from where my rigs are and I’m actually drawing fish away
from the rigs rather than towards them. But out there it’s pretty flat
all the way out there, maybe a foot of difference, so even
round boilies would be staying put, but I love the halves anyway. You’ve got twice as many food items
in the swim for the same amount of boilie and the fish respond really,
really well to them. My spod is clipped up at nine feet, three-quarters of a rod length
short of where my marker rod is and where my fishing rods
are clipped up. And the reason for that
is the swing back of the lead. So in 22ft of water, as I hit the clip, the lead is swinging back towards me
on a tight line like a pendulum. And basically I know
from this sort of depth of water that it’s about three-quarters
of a rod length is that swing back. So if I clipped up at the same distance
as my fishing rods, the Spomb would hit the water
where the rigs are hitting the water, but the Spomb isn’t sinking,
so it stays in that position where the rigs are sinking
through the water column and coming back towards me, so I’d end up spombing 9ft
past where my baited rigs are. Now the further out you go
and the shallower the water, the less the swing back and at 100 yards in about 5ft of water,
there’s almost no swing back, so you clip up at the same distance. But in this situation
where I’m fishing 66 yards out and I’m in 22ft of water,
the swing back is considerable. And earlier on
when I had the two marker floats out, I cast one of the floats out
at the same clipped up range, at that time it was 15 rod lengths, and you see it lands well past
the float that’s already out there. But then swinging back towards me,
when I let it up it comes up almost exactly
the same distance as the other float and that shows how much swing back
there is in this sort of situation. So I’m going to put about 25 medium
Spombs out all along that area. There’s 200 fish here in like 12 acres, and although
the lake’s not been fishing brilliant, I think it’s done five or six fish
in the last sort of four or five days, they’re showing out there
or they were before I started fishing and I’m confident
that once they find this bait, they’re going to keep coming to it. I should, if I get a bite,
I should get more than one. Second take on the pop-up rig. Fish is staying out long at the moment. I think I’m going to walk
down to the side bank. I’ve got a net down there
and see where the fish is going. Yeah, he’s keeping into that bank so I’m going to go down there
and try and net him a bit closer. Nice to have a lighter rod on. I don’t normally use 3-pounders, but I found actually it’s really good
for the casting at these sort of ranges. If you’ve got too heavy a rod, it actually makes short-range fishing
quite problematic, but these are just perfect
for this sort of range from sort of nothing
up to sort of 80, 90 yards and then when you get a fish on,
they’re very forgiving. You’ve got to be so careful at short
range not to pull the hooks out. Come on… Lovely fully scaled, get in that net. Yes. Bosh! Get in! Man, that’s wicked. Well, check him out. What an awesome, awesome carp. 18lb 4oz, absolutely over the moon
to get this one and a pattern is now forming
in this swim. One o’clock
is a really good time for a bite, so I put another ten Spombs
of chopped-up Fibre boilie out there and then the bite came
a few hours afterwards and that’s exactly what happened
yesterday as well. So I now know that if I come back in
this swim, 16 rod lengths is the spot, bite time is nine o’clock in the
morning, probably until mid-afternoon, nothing seems to be happening at night and all those things
I’ll be writing down on my phone. I spent a load of time
markering at the start of the session and it started pretty slow for me
because of that, but I now know the swim
and that’s so important. If I come back in here at any point
in the future, I know the marks, I know the bite times and hopefully I’ll be able to extract
a lot more fish out of it. The hardware for spodding and
markering up is absolutely critical and I see a lot of people get it wrong where they spend the least amount
of money on their marker rod and their spod rod and then they just
can’t marker at the range they need to. Now deep lakes generally
you’re not fishing that far out because they get deep really quickly, so casting long distance
is not such a consideration but still if you’re going
to spend the money, you might as well spend it on something that can do range
as well as fishing close. And when you’ve got a big crosswind
like we have here and you’re using heavy leads and stuff, it makes it more accurate
if you’ve got a better spod rod and a better marker rod. So I’m using a Longbow
X45 Spod n Marker for my marker rod and I’m using a Longbow X45 Spod
for my spod rod. It’s a little bit heavier
in the test curve and when you’ve got a Spomb
heavily laden, it will cast that one
that little bit further. And with those I’ve got a spod reel on
the spod rod, very, very fast retrieve. That’s loaded with Spod Braid, which is very, very thin,
luminous yellow in colour and that keeps the seagulls away. If you put a spod out
and leave it on the surface you can actually bait up
and the brightly-coloured braid actually stops the gulls
from diving into the surface. And then on the marker rod
I’ve got Marker Braid which is exactly the same
as the Spod Braid but it’s a darker green colour so if you’re going to leave it
out in the swim for any amount of time, it’s less visible to the fish and both of those I’ve finished off with
a 30lb Arma-Kord leader. What that does
is it takes the force of the cast, because both of those braids
are very, very thin. If you try to cast them long distance
with a 4oz lead, you would probably crack them off. So I’m joining that to the 30lb
Arma-Kord with a four turn water knot, so a very, very small knot, it very rarely catches
when you cast it out there and that’s about three rod lengths long,
something like that, so it takes the force of the cast
and the other important aspect of it is it stops the marker float
from tangling when you cast out. What I’ve done is formed a big loop
on the end of both those rods, so it’s the same loop as you tie
for your hair rig, but it’s maybe six, eight inches long, and that means I can loop to loop
on different systems. So to start off with I might just use
a lead on its own just to feel the bottom
and then I’ll loop to loop that off and then replace it
with a marker float system. So the lead on the stem, a bead
and then the float itself and then I can also
loop to loop that off, change the colour of the float
if I want to, or take it all off and in this case on the spod rod,
replace it with a medium-size Spomb and then put the bait out like that. So I’ll keep one rod out there
with a marker float on and then the other rod
gets used for the spombing. I have finally succumbed to pressure
from Tom Dove and moved away
from my beloved Fox Box onto one of the new tackle safes and I am astonished how much kit
actually goes into here. It looks really small, but if I talk you
through what I’ve got in mine. So I’ve got my size 11 ring swivels,
my barrel beads and other rubber beads in there. I’ve got both sizes of crimp,
the 06 and the 07, plus Micro Rig Swivels
and Micro Ring Swivels in there. Then all the stuff for my choddies. So I’ve got the Chod Sleeves
and the No-Trace Beads in that one. And then opening up those there, I’ve got all my boom sections
for my COG system and also my shrink tube and
my silicone tube as well in those two. And then this one is basically
my sort of naked chod stuff. So I’ve got some chod rigs in there plus
a couple of spare needles and stuff, a bait drill
that I don’t use very often, so that’s one I don’t go to that much. And then back onto the front here,
onto the lead system. So I’ve got Hybrid lead clips and
also the Heli-Safe in those two and then in these two I’ve got lead
clips and rubbers in the same one, obviously matching colours of those. Obviously this big compartment here
I’ve got all the bigger items. My hook sharpening kit,
needles, my bait drills and I used to take both sizes
of bait drill with me all the time and I never used the big one. So I’ve scaled everything down and I’m just taking
the one that I use all the time. Dark Matter, one pair of scissors
rather than three pairs of scissors and then if I turn it around
the other way. So in this side we’ve got
some anti-tangle sleeves and some Heli Sleeves
and stuff in there as well. And then some of the new D-rig sections
that go on the back of the hook and obviously the corks
to go with the drill. And then these last few, my Hook Beads which I use all the time
now with a Spinner rig. Size 8 swivels in various guises. Both sizes of Kicker, medium and large, little bits of lead
to poke in the bottom of the bait. And then one with all my rig rings in it
and my Link Loops and then the last couple
is the caps to go on the hook, which I saved
from when we had the Kaptors out to protect the point of the hook
when I’m storing them. And then two different sizes of Extenda
stop and the normal hair stops as well. And then finally Quick Change Swivels
in size 8 and size 11 that I use for the Spinner rig. So let’s shut that up and it’s the lovely little magnets
that hold it together. So a beautiful bit of kit and then
my extra stuff goes in here. This is one of the new Compac bags. This is the second size down,
so not the largest of them but I’ve still got a couple
of the Fox Hook Boxes in there that I keep all my patterns of hook. I also keep hooks in the top bit there,
that are still in the wallets and then underneath those I’ve got
all my different spools in there, my floss, my hook links, spools, Marker,
Elastic, that sort of thing. And that all fits together
absolutely perfectly in there. If I drop that in the top,
that was obviously made for the job and zip up around there. They’re fully waterproof as well and
there’s four sizes of the Compac and there’s also a wallet
that goes into them as well that perfectly fits each size. So I’ve got some overflow kit,
sort of spare spools of line, batteries, that sort of thing goes in one. Then other ones
I use for my cooking gear, for stuff that I’m taking with me
like suntan lotion, all the personal stuff,
face wipes, all that sort of thing. Everybody loves a bag for a bag,
they love to organise their kit. I’m no different from anybody else. Have a play around with them,
I’m sure they’ll suit your fishing. The hardware I’m using
on this particular session has been chosen specifically
for this kind of lake. Last time I came here I fished my
12ft 3.75lb Infinities at real close range and I bumped a couple of fish off. So this time I’ve chosen
a much lighter test curve. I’ve got a 12ft 3lb Longbow X45 and that type of rod is probably
a bit softer than an Infinity for the same test curve,
so they’re a bit more forgiving. And coupled with them
are the new Crosscast reels. They look absolutely beautiful. You wouldn’t believe
they were a budget reel. The line lay on them is fantastic. I’m using 15lb Touchdown which means I can feel the lead
hit the bottom really easily and that’s important as well. I want to know if I’m on a clear bit,
if I’m on a little bit of weed or in a bit of silt. It’s really important if you’ve got
a low stretch line like Touchdown, it tells you more. Because it sinks well as well, once I’ve put the tip under the water
and sunk the line through, I’ll pay a bit of line off and try and get as much on the bottom
as I possibly can. The other thing
about those Crosscast reels, they’ve got a really kind line clip
and I’m always fishing against the clip so in this situation
I’m fishing at 16 rod lengths, it’s hitting the clip, the rod tip
is being poked under the water basically to sink the line. As the lead is sinking
through the water column, remember it’s going down to 22 feet, as it’s sinking it’s actually sinking
the line at the same time. If you have the rod up in the air with
a big crosswind and that depth of water, it can pull the lead back towards you. Now everybody knows
I can use the top end kit if I want. I could have Basia reels on,
I could have Infinity rods, but I think this proves
that as long as your tackle is balanced, you can cope with this sort of fishing
with mid-range kit. The rods have got a lovely battle curve. You see them hooped over
when I’m playing a fish but they’ll punch a lead out
with pinpoint accuracy. If you’re going to upgrade your tackle,
that’s what I recommend. Good morning. I’ve chosen Lake Three on South Ings
for this particular session because there’s
a couple of fish in here that I would absolutely love to catch. There was a 28lb mirror stocked
last winter that could easily go over 30 and a common has now broken through
the 30-pound barrier that doesn’t get caught a lot as well. So either of those
would be very, very welcome, but the other reason
for choosing this one is it’s a different style of fishing
from Lakes One and Two. You’re fishing
at very close quarters here because it gets deep
really, really quickly, so all the baiting
is done from the bank and I got here last night, didn’t really have time to set up
properly and start fishing. So what I do is just
put the marker float out in two spots that I’ve caught fish from before, but what I did differently
on this session is I used the Deeper castable sonar, to see what the topography
of the bottom was like. So to see how flat or steep
the marginal slope was because I’m literally ten yards
off the margin with both sets of rods. I found that the spots I’d caught
fish on before were pretty flat, which I expected. On really deep lakes you want to find
areas that are the right depth, so in this case sort of 20-23ft
but are also flat. You don’t want to be fishing
on a cliff face. So I put a bit of bait out last night
after I found those areas and then this morning the fish were showing
pretty much all over the lake. There’s a lovely south-westerly
blowing into us now. Probably the best bit of all of that is I saw a couple of fish actually show
right over the bait, so just head and shouldered
over the top of the bait, which means
the stuff I put out last night was probably half a kilo on each area,
is getting eaten. Once it got light enough
to do everything, I went round the distant sticks. On the right-hand set I’m fishing 9.5 rod
lengths and 8.5 rod lengths respectively. So the two rods
are both on the marginal shelf but they’re about a rod length apart and I sprayed bait
all over that area yesterday and this morning before I cast out,
I’ve put some more bait out because it’s always better
to scare the fish away with bait rather than with a rig. So rather than casting a lead
right amongst feeding fish, put a few pouchfuls of bait out. The sound of that is enough
to hopefully push them away. It fluttering through the water
does the same thing. Once they’re off the spot
then you can get both the casts out. What I’ve done differently
to the other session is I’ve still used the Marker Elastic to
mark the distance I’m fishing, but I’ve cast well past the spot,
not clipped up, cast well past the spot
and then wound it back until that bit of marker elastic
just ticks into the tip ring and then I know I’m at the right range
and then I stop winding and then lower the rod down and just allow the bait just to come
to rest exactly where it would be if I had hit the clip at that distance. And the reason for doing that is you
can cast well past your baited area. It makes absolutely no splash
in the baited area and then winding back allows you
to drop the rig silently into the area and hopefully get a faster bite and I will continue to adopt that during
the fishing session. It’s always nice to cast past the area,
watch the rig in the air, see that everything’s separate and I did the same
on the other two rods as well. So I’ve got two on the right-hand side
and one on the left-hand side, both over a load of chopped boilie. It’s a day lake as well,
does lots of day bites here, so we’re hoping now it’s great weather,
overcast, low light levels, couldn’t really be better
for a daytime bite. So we’re all set up ready
for action, let’s see how it pans out. The fish responded really quickly
to the bait and the first bite came
just a few hours into the session. Fights in deep water
are always really weird with the line pointing straight down
most of the time and eventually I caught a glimpse
of a really nice scaly upper-double. Just when it looked like
the game was over, disaster struck. Gutted. Feels like a small, lively fish,
same rod as before. On the pink again. Come on… Come on, get in that net.
Get in that net. Bosh! Got him! After a lost fish, that is wicked. I’m just going to transfer it
into the sling. Always lift them out of the water
in the sling. Check that out. What an absolutely stunning creature,
just gorgeous, absolutely gorgeous. 12 and three-quarters, but who cares how big they are
when they look like this. I’m absolutely over the moon with that. If something is working
on a venue that you’re fishing, then you want to be
swapping all rods to that because last year
I caught them all on Mystic Spice. That hasn’t done a bite, so changing over to the pink one
will hopefully produce more takes. But most importantly, that spot
on the left-hand side is rocking now, so I’ll be getting
some more bait out on that, just a few more pouchfuls
of half boilies and then another pink one over the top,
casting past the area, winding it back so that line marker just
clicks into the tip ring, lower it down onto the spot and hopefully
it’s going to produce some more bites. But for now,
I’m absolutely over the moon. I’ve chosen to fish my rods split,
two on this side, one on that side because my spots are down
different margins of the lake. If I had all three rods together in the
front of the swim, it would still work, but it would mean
when I’m playing fish on one rod I could end up
going through the other lines, so by keeping them apart, it means when I get bites
on the left-hand side I can play them away from this
right-hand set of rods and vice versa. So what I’ve done with the single system is I’ve taken the uprights
off of my three-rod setup and then changed it to a two-rod setup. I’ve got the two-rod buzz bars with me
as well which weigh next to nothing. It looks super cool
just to fish these two rods as well, which I know shouldn’t matter,
but it does. And then with the other one,
the uprights that I’ve unscrewed, I’ve just put an extra spike
in the bottom of them and just fished it
as a set of single sticks on the left-hand side of the swim. You can see I’ve got snag ears on there,
which I didn’t use to use, but I’ve been doing
some real snag fishing this year where the rods are getting pulled off
the rest if you don’t use them and I keep them on all the time now. I’ve pointed this right-hand set
of rods more at where I’m fishing because if they were
pointing straight out, what I’ve found sometimes
when you’re fishing down a margin, your left-hand rod goes,
it pulls underneath the right-hand rod and you can’t get it off the rest
to actually pull up into the fish. So I’ve learnt to try and point the rods
at where I’m fishing as much as possible so that doesn’t happen. And you see the bobbins I’m fishing
are very, very slack. These are Stow bobbins
and I think for this sort of fishing there is nothing
that comes close to them. The reason for that
is they’re semi-fixed from the bobbin back to the reel. So it’s the reel that’s supporting
the weight of the bobbin, not the line going out there. And you’ll see, the bites I’m getting
are absolute rippers. I’m fishing really, really close in,
they always charge off away from you when you’re fishing with a slack line
close in anyway, so people worry about bite indication
when you’ve got a slack line and you’re not going to get
as good bite indication. Well, you’re probably not, but I’d much
rather have that than a tight line going right through
the middle of the swim, telling the fish
exactly where I’m fishing. So by fishing them like that, semi-fixed
and supported by the weight of the reel, I think it’s a major, major advantage and you can see the line’s just drooping
down really slack off the rod tip. I’m not worried that it’s sitting
in all the weed on the marginal shelf. That’s the perfect line lay
in my opinion and it’s so different from how
most people fish with a heavy bobbin, right underneath the rods. You can see the lines like a bow string
going through the swim and I think the fish know all about it and they can avoid areas
as a result of it. So that’s how I’ve got my rods set up
for this kind of close quarters fishing in very, very deep water. I know it’s different from the norm
and it may seem weird to fish like this, but if you do,
I promise it will get you more action. That’s one of the great things
about deep lakes, they fish well into the late autumn
and into the winter, right up until Christmas is a brilliant
time on these sort of places. Really pleased I’ve got the soft rods
on now, really pleased. Get in that net, you big, fat carp! Get in! Yes! Come on! That is a real big ‘un for this lake,
that is awesome! Okay, moment of truth. He’s big. He is 27 and three-quarters – get in! Yeah, check that out. 27lb 12oz, my biggest fish from Pit Three
by some margin, my biggest mirror by a long, long way, and there’s bigger ones
than that in here, there could be one that goes 30lb. Just an awesome, awesome creature,
set for really big things in the future and from a personal perspective
I’m getting it right, that’s the most important thing. I’ve worked out the swim,
worked out the baiting, worked out the rigs and the hook baits,
absolutely over the moon. Let’s give him a little kissy. As we always do. Off you go, my darling,
back to your watery home. As soon as that chunky mirror
was safely back in the water, it was time to chop up some more baits. Being prepared for more action is the best way
to make the most of any session. On this particular lake
I’m catapulting them out because I’m fishing
so close to the bank, just going round to the adjacent bank and catapulting them over the top of the
marker float at the start of the session and then once I know what I’m aiming at
on the far bank and how far I’ve got to catapult them,
I don’t need the float any more I just carry on catapulting out
in that rough sort of area. And with the catapult
you get a really nice spread of chops, even at close range and
it just creates a lovely baited area. You can imagine the fish
coming and picking them off, perhaps taking the ones
that are further away from the rig to start off with and then moving closer and closer in
until you get a bite. It’s a proper little edge
when you’re fishing on deep lakes. Left-hand rod again this morning. As you can see the sun’s come up,
it’s a beautiful day and it’s very high pressure
and you’d think that deep water wouldn’t fish in high pressure,
but certainly these lakes, it doesn’t seem to make a difference. And if you just fished on
when it looked good on paper, you probably wouldn’t come
on days like today and this proves
that it is still worth it. Banging its head a lot,
could be a better one, but I don’t know at the moment. Charging around quite fast
which normally means a smaller fish. Get in that net. Bosh! Got him! Come on! Just check his fins are flat.
That one’s bent back there. See the little lump,
just push it flat against his body. He is 26 on the button. Get in! There we go, check that out. Just an awesome,
awesome complex, this and it shows that just because
you’ve got deep water up in the north, it doesn’t mean
that the fish won’t grow and it doesn’t mean that the fishing
doesn’t stay really consistent. And I reckon this place will keep
fishing right up until Christmas. The deep water
just helps that so, so much and if I lived closer,
I’d be here all the time. Beastie. Yes! The rig I’ve been using on both lakes
over these couple of sessions is my favourite
pop-up rig at the moment. It’s called the Spinner rig,
or the Ronnie rig, and the essence of the rig
is a Quick Change Ring Swivel that the hook clips onto. So you’re no longer
tying it onto the line. It’s being hooked on and it means
you can change it really, really easily, but most importantly
it spins really quickly so as the fish sucks the bait in,
it spins into the prone position, catches in the flesh really, really
quickly and a roaring take ensues. The hook links I’m using
are made of Hybrid Stiff. That’s slightly softer
than the boom material which has become very popular
for use with that rig. I just like
that slightly softer material, especially
when I’m fishing for smaller fish. I think it just enables the hook
to get into the right position in the bottom lip
that little bit easier. And you can fish that rig
with a braided hook link if you want. The important part of it is that swivel
can turn and catch hold so quickly. The hook link itself is about 5” long
and it’s crimped at either end. I love crimping,
I’ve done it for years now and the Hybrid Stiff material
works particularly well with it. If you tie a knot in it, you have to tie
like a half blood knot, or a grinner. You can’t do a loop knot
in Hybrid Stiff, it just doesn’t like it but if you crimp it, you get almost 10lb
extra breaking strain. So 20lb with a knot,
nearly 30lb crimping. The most important part of crimping
with these double barrelled crimps is when you squeeze them down,
it squeezes down evenly so it’s not squashed flat, it retains
the same shape it started off as, but it’s just squeezed nice and tight. The crimp underneath the hook
is what I mould the putty round to counterbalance the pop-up and I use a lot of putty, I want
the pop-up sinking really quickly. At the start of this session
I used a Krank X in size 4 and it was heavily, heavily sharpened and unfortunately the first fish came
off, so I swapped over to a Wide Gape X, again quite thick in the wire
but heavily sharpened again and every fish since then
has been absolutely nailed. The hook simply clips onto
this new Spinner Rig Swivel which has got a different crook on
the end so you don’t have to open it up and then over the top of that I put
a medium Kicker that I’ve just cut down. It makes sure
the hook doesn’t get off that crook and just gives a nice angle so the hook’s sort of cocked over
like a claw to grab the flesh. And then the bait goes on. That’s tied onto a Micro Rig Swivel,
and I just use a series of granny knots just to tighten down the hair stop
on the top of that hook bait and then just burn the ends
just to neaten everything up. And then lastly one of our Hook Beads,
and the point of the hook goes through that just a little way. You can then pull it off the sprew and then slide it around to the top
of the shank of the hook. That’s where I like it to be
and if you drop it into the edge you can just see how aggressive it looks when it’s sitting there
waiting for a take. Now that’s fished on a helicopter rig,
and the reason I’m using that is I’m using small hook baits
which are prone to tangling but not with a helicopter rig. I’ve got a very short leadcore leader,
so it’s only about 18” long. I cut them right down because
you don’t need any longer than that. That bit’s lying across the bottom and as soon as you can get off that
leadcore leader and onto the main line, that makes the whole thing
as invisible as possible. The advantage
of having a lead core leader on means that it’s very, very durable,
so you can play loads of fish and not have to retie anything
and also it’s kinder to the fish. So when you’re playing the fish
it’s going to be that lead core leader that’s rubbing up and down
the side of the fish and I think that just reduces the risk
of taking any scales off. I’m using a Heli-Safe on the bottom
of the leadcore leader and that’s just done by snipping
the ring of the ring swivel off the bottom of the lead core leader, or using the little swivel that
actually comes with the Heli-Safe and splicing that on. And then the whole thing slides down
over the leadcore leader and fits together and you can use it
to either dump the lead or keep the lead on. In this situation I’m dumping the lead
because I’m not getting many bites and I want to make sure
every single one goes in the net. But if I was getting loads of takes,
I’d put the little collar in, keep the lead on and if you lose
the odd fish because of it, it’s not the end of the world. And my top bead, the No-Trace Bead
is about 2-4” above the lead. It’s a flat lead, a 3oz flat pear. I’ve cut the swivel off it just to keep
everything nice and close together and I think the fish feels the weight of
the lead that little bit sooner if you do take the swivel off. I need a flat lead in this situation because the bottom there
is very, very steep and I don’t want a round lead
rolling down the marginal shelf and tangling the rig up
once it’s come to rest. Hook baits-wise, I’ve changed
from yellow on the first session, which really suited the Fibre bait
that I was feeding, over to a pink almond on this session, basically because that’s what
I’ve been catching on recently. It was on one rod and that rod
has kept producing the bites so I’ve swapped it over to all rods. And it’s worth keeping in touch with the other guys on the lake
that you’re fishing. If something is standing out
that’s getting more bites, then that is the thing to get onto. There’s no shame
in copying successful anglers. It’s always worth
plugging into the local network, always make them a cup of tea,
get a bit of extra information and it will definitely
get you more bites. Taking a hell of a lot of line. A little quote from Jaws there
just because I love it so much. Proper powered off, this one,
into the deep water. It’s important to be patient now and
just let the tip of the rod do the work. There he is, he’s nailed. Bosh! Got him! Wicked! Result. Yeah. One awesome, awesome fish
to finish our Deep Water Masterclass. I absolutely love this kind of fishing. If these lakes were closer to home
I’d be here all the time. It’s so, so interesting and the fish
are in such awesome nick as well. I hope it’s given you
loads of tips and tricks to put into your own deep water angling. And remember, it may be deep,
but that’s where the food is.

53 comments on “Korda Carp Fishing Masterclass 5 – Deep Lakes | Danny Fairbrass | Free DVD 2018

  1. What an amazing video absolutely superb film work and the underwater shots were great to see and very interesting to see the swing back on the cast and the line lay underwater korda set the bar with their films and this did not disapoint

  2. Really nice watch thanks for the tips and tricks some cracking looking fish and nice to see Danny being happy with them all round well done Korda

  3. Quality video just don’t understand how you can say fish won’t grow on particals because otherwise Euro aqua have been getting it wrong and so have I and my fish are doing 10lb a year

  4. Getting better.
    the diagrams are a great teaching aid there needs to be more across the board great editing and Danny and Neil are tv frendliy unlike peck.
    I enjoy the trakker vids to they push there products in vids but don't get slated like dare arse and the boys need more subliminal take your litter home far to many lazy tramps out there.

  5. i used the ronnie rig a bit last year . for some reason it leaves big holes in the mouth . and it also double hooks sometimes .not good . but a good watch ..

  6. Keine deutschen Untertitel, keine Big Lakes , kein Abenteuer, langweilig…ab der Hälfte hat man einfach keine Lust zu gucken , man wird einfach nicht abgeholt ! Kein einziger Big Lake aus Europa ?

  7. i would say he has no idea how expensive this spod equipment for normally people is xD aqnd 200 carps in idk maybie 5 hkt lake<? WTF… go fishing in real thats not fishing what you guys doing.

  8. Nice informative video as usual from Korda, well done! However Dan loose a lot of lead which is not necessarry in this specific lake in my opinion.

  9. Good production as always i would say. Sadly our german gravel pits are much less in features than yours. Very low stocked, massive fish, but hard to localize. 50ft might be the average depth, but i know spots double that deep.

  10. is there an equation for working out how much less to need to measure your spod rod to the maker. depending on length of cast and depth of water? there must be!…..i am no way cleaver enough to work it out!

  11. if korda could coat the spinner swivel in the same colours as the kaptor hooks itd sell sell sell coz im sure these carp are sick of the sight of blatant black tackle!

  12. hello Korda –Danny do you always kiss the carp and did you get that from Rex hunt fishing master who also kisses his fish ..

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