Claire Corlett

Fish Food, Fish Tanks, and More
Korda Carp Fishing Masterclass Vol. 4 Chapter 3: Precision Weed Fishing (13 LANGUAGES)

Korda Carp Fishing Masterclass Vol. 4 Chapter 3: Precision Weed Fishing (13 LANGUAGES)

The slime on the T-shirt
and the wet trousers are a sign of a very successful 48 hours
we’ve had here at Yateley Pads Lake. I came with my old mate, Elliott Gray, to show you guys how we tackle
a tricky little weedy water like this. It’s been brilliant. I hope you guys
can take away some tips and tricks to be successful on a water near you. It’s pouring down with rain,
I’m ready for bed. Let’s go home. The Yateley Complex is probably
the most iconic group of waters in carp-fishing history. The Pads Lake
is the smallest on the complex and was once home
to just a handful of carp. Now it’s full of big ones
and we’re here to try and catch them. When walking round a small,
weedy lake like this and I’m trying to find
what swim I want to fish, I’m looking for exactly the same things
as I would do when I’m fishing a big lake. Firstly, you want to look
for where the fish are. Location is the most important thing. Where the bulk of the fish are
is where you want to be. Second to that, you want to pick a swim
that’s got some nice features. Lily pads, weed bed snags, islands,
that sort of thing, places where you know
fish are going to live or patrol. That’s where you want to be fishing. What you can quite easily do
on a lake that’s full of weed, in comparison to a lake
that has no weed in it, is when you turn up and cast
to showing fish or bubbling fish, it might take you a lot more casts
to actually get rods fishing well. Whereas on a lake
that hasn’t got the weed, you can go three plops, you’re out
there, you haven’t disturbed the carp and a bite can come
but on a lake like this you can quite easily ruin your chances just by turning up
and just getting the rods out. My general approach to fishing is to
move around and cast to showing fish and try and get bites pretty quick. But when the weed’s as bad as it is here,
it’s really difficult to do that simply because your presentation
isn’t good enough. If you cast that into the weed,
the rig’s hung up in the weed and you can’t get a bite
so when that does happen, that approach has to go
out of the window and you go to plan B. Plan B is to have a flick around
with your lead with a rig on and just try and find
some clearer areas in the weed. What you’re trying find
is a slightly firmer drop with your lead and once you’ve done that,
just clip it up, cast back out and you know that your rig
is presentable then. I do that with all three rods – bait and wait as soon as you know
you’re in the right position. The session was now well underway
and in a race against the light we got ourselves sorted. I got the intimate little swim
that I wanted, between the pads, and Dovey set up
across the water to my right in a swim which controls
the back edge of the lilies and plenty of rather weedy, open water. Even though I’m coming to this lake
with a few different approaches, I wouldn’t come here with a new method
that I’ve never used before just for the sake of it. I’ll come with something that’s tried and
tested, that I’ve caught carp on before from different lakes. You’ll often find
that even coming to a new lake, you might have to change it
ever so slightly just so you’re presented right,
your rigs maybe, but carp are the same everywhere. They eat the same thing
and they act the same. So don’t go changing anything
drastically – use what you know works. Particularly if you’re going to a lake
for the first time, you want to be getting
all the info you can. Talk to people you might know
that have fished there in the past. If it’s an exclusive booking
like this is at the Pads, talk to the tackle shops
that are involved with the place, the owner, just anyone you can
that might know something. They might have just one little gem
that can really help you out when it comes to your session. I’ve brought my pole along with me –
I call it the Super Pole. It’s something I made a little while back
and it’s basically a long baiting pole. I’ve brought that along
because I had it in my head that I would fish somewhere around
the pads providing there is fish there. So I’ll give it a go. It’s quite funny to watch
but it works really well and providing the areas there
along the pads I’ll be able to put rigs
with proper precision and kick back feeling pretty confident. The afternoon and evening’s
disappeared pretty quickly. When we first got here the fish
were fizzing, they were jumping. Normally I’d just try and cast to fizzing
and try and catch them straight away but it’s so weedy out there,
it really is so weedy that when I cast out I just knew
my bait wasn’t presented. So it’s at that time you have to realise
you have to get set in for the evening. The light was disappearing,
the evening was gone so instead of just trying to fish
for the fish straight away I decided to flick around
with the three leads and try and find some fishable spots
for the night. There’s a little mouse
running down there. But I found three spots. Elliott’s in a similar sort of area
to me on the lake. He’s just fishing over towards the pads,
it’s a swim he wanted to fish, and it looks gorgeous over there. He’s got this ridiculous pole that I was absolutely cracking up
laughing at earlier. I don’t know what he’s made it out of. It looks like he’s pulled
some tent apart and made it. I’m sure he’s fishing some good spots. It looks good,
the fish are obviously feeding. Let’s see what the night brings. This morning’s been electric. The fish are definitely feeding. I’ve had two at first light
so I’ve got two in that net down there. And this is the third. I had a bite on each rod. Things are looking good. When you get a bite on each rod,
you’re laughing because you know you’ve got
three spots that are producing. It just goes to show
that when it’s weedy like this, spend some time and get some spots. Find some clear areas. This is a better fish. You can’t beat these summer mornings
after they’ve spawned and they’re really hungry. It gets light early and they’re feeding. Brilliant. Absolutely brilliant. Yes! Ooh, that was me. What a way to start.
What a way to start. Look at him. A long, lean, angry
Pads Lake mirror, 24½lb and a brilliant way
to start here this morning. This is the third of three fish. Three different spots,
three different rods on the same rig. A helicopter rig, I’m dropping the lead
and a really stiff Boom hook link. Usually you wouldn’t fish that
really stiff hook link in weed like this but if they’re fished correctly,
they can be devastating, as I showed you this morning. I’m going to get this one back. I think Elliott’s got one over there,
so let’s go and check that one out. Here’s my first one from Pads Lake.
25lb mirror. I’ve caught this fish on tactics you’ve probably
never seen me using before. It’s a new method that I’ve been trying
in my own fishing at home. It basically incorporates big,
drop-off leads, short hook links and solid-bag tactics which just so happens
to suit this lake down to the ground because there’s very few clear spots
and lots of activity. So I’m going to get this fish back.
I’ve got two solid bags ready to go and I’m going to get them out there,
see if I can get a bite off the bubblers. The most important thing to consider
when you’re fishing a weedy lake is just to have your hook
and your bait presented at all times. It’s very easy to concentrate
on so many other things but you end up
with a hook that isn’t fishing. Most people opt for a pop-up
to get going on a weedy lake and I might do that a lot of the time. But there’s loads of other ways
you can do it. The rig I’ve been using here on paper
isn’t a typical rig for a weedy lake but I’m doing certain things that I know for 100%
that the rig is out there presented. The first thing to do when tying this rig
is take a length of N-Trap braid. Then remove the coating
from eight inches of the braid. Now I’m going to form the hair loop. To do that you double over 2cm
of the braid, form an overhand loop, pass it back through itself,
pull it down tight and there you go,
ready to mount your bait. No-one likes a messy rig so I then trim the tag end off the loop
using a pair of scissors. It’s then time to attach the hook and when it comes
to bottom bait fishing, there’s only one choice
as far as I’m concerned and that is a size-6 Wide Gape. To attach the hook I’ll pass the braid
through the back of the hook’s eye and then whip down the shank six times before passing the braid back
through the back of the eye, out of the front, pulling it down,
which will secure your knotless knot and the hook in place. I’m now going to add some shrink tube. So I’ll take a length of it,
measure it at just over 2cm, and then carefully trim it
with a pair of scissors. I now take a splicing needle, which is
the orange one, nice and thin, and I’ll use the hook
to penetrate the shrink tubing. I then grab the braid from the rig and pull the shrink tube
down onto this braid and once it’s down onto the braid you’ll notice that the braid
is exiting the tubing early rather than flowing through the middle
as you might expect. Using the shrink tube in this way allows me to get my hook
flipping and turning really quickly. At all times the point
where the braid exits the tubing must be facing the hook point,
so it’s on the inside of the eye. It’s now time to add a split shot to the rig
and I like to use a number 3 or 4 and I’ll position that about 5mm
from the base of the tubing. Get the kettle boiling and lower
the whole lot inside the bubbling water. What this will do is shrink the tubing and enable you to create
that all-important angle off the eye, which will get that hook flipping
and turning really fast. Now I’m going to attach the hook bait. Once I’ve done that I’ll pull the rig
across the palm of my hand to check that it’s flipping
and turning properly. If you do it yourselves you’ll see that every single time
you pull it across your palm it’s going to turn and grab
almost straight away and that is the result of combining
my favourite hook pattern with the supple braid, that split shot and that unique style
of line-aligned shrink tubing. Combine that lot together and
you’ve got something pretty deadly. To construct the leader,
the first thing you want to do is remove three inches of the wire
from inside some Kable leadcore. Then find the hinge where it’s supple
because the wire has been removed, push your splicing needle
into the leadcore from that point. You want the needle
to exit 1.5 inches from the entry point and once that’s happened,
use the latch on the end of the needle to grab hold of the tag end and
pull the leadcore back inside itself, twisting and turning as you do so. It will exit at the base
and once that’s happened, pass your needle through the loop
at the end and pull it down tight. Remove between 3 and 5ft of the
leadcore, trim it with a pair of scissors and then carefully pass a small
Guru tail rubber onto the leader with the thin end facing towards
the loop you’ve just created. Now remove another three inches of
the wire but this time from the other end. Trim it with a pair of scissors
and then, like before, find that hinge. Put the needle in, exit halfway up and
then place a quick-change, size-8 swivel onto the tag end before, once again, using that latch to pull the tag
back inside the leadcore sheath. Pull the tail rubber down over the swivel, now it’s time to add some putty
to the leader. I do this simply
because I want to go the extra mile. The leadcore will sink perfectly fine
of its own accord but I add this putty just to guarantee that it’s pinned down
as well as it can possibly be. I then remove the plastic insert
from inside a 5oz Flat Pear Inline. Using a pair of scissors, cut off the
majority of the widest part of the stem which is at the bottom
but leave a small bit of it. I then simply pop the stem
back inside the lead and use a pair of scissors
to give it a good old push just to make sure
that’s fixed in there nice and firm. Now I take a Shock Leader Sleeve,
wet it with some saliva and then poke that into the big hole
at the base of the lead. Using a pair of scissors, cut halfway
through the shock leader sleeve and then remove it
before continuing that cut to basically replicate the small piece of
plastic that you cut off of the hard stem a little while ago. Pop that piece of rubber
inside the base of the lead, pick up your leader and fold the
leadcore back against the swivel. Doing this will make it much easier for you to push the swivel
inside the base of the lead. Wrap the leadcore around the side
of the lead rather than over the top. Then pass your tail rubber
down the leadcore and onto the stem which is exiting the top of the lead and I’ve trimmed this slightly
using a pair of scissors just to make the lead drop off
a little bit easier. So there it is. Quick change
guaranteed to drop the lead every single time you get a bite. Normally with a pop-up, you’re using
the fact that it’s popped up to keep the hook out of harm’s way. Whereas when you’re
going to use a bottom bait you’ve got to ensure
that when the hook is on the bottom your hook isn’t going
to come into any form of danger. So the hook’s going to lay flat
and it needs to be protected and PVA has become a big part
of how I do that. So I’m using solid bags
and I’m also using PVA tape in different ways just to ensure that
that hook is sat pretty all the time. To ensure that my hook’s protected,
I’m wrapping it in PVA tape so I’m nicking a piece of tape on and then slowly wrapping it
round the shank a few times covering the point and then
just licking it and sticking it. I want to have bigger food items
in my little bags which is why I’m opting for the solid
bags rather than PVA mesh. Normally you can make a little stick,
thread the hook link through it and it’s a much quicker and smoother
process than what I’m doing but because I want to have
those big food items in there, if I made a stick
with the amount of bait that I want I can’t do that. So by taping the hook up first,
then dropping it inside the PVA bag and tying it off like a miniature
solid bag at the base of the hook link, that enables me to have my hook inside,
which is masked by the tape and then it’s surrounded by the bait but the bait isn’t actually come into
contact and mask the hook point. When you’re trying
to protect your hook point, one of the most positive things
you can do is to actually find a clear spot
to cast the rig on to. So I use SUBbraid in 20lb,
I love a braided main line and what that enables me to do is use
my fishing rods as marker rods in effect. So I can cast around with a fishing rod,
find an area and then clip up
and put a rig straight on it and you can be so precise with braid. There’s no stretch so on a lake like this
where you’re looking for tiny clear spots amongst weed, with the braid
you can just flick it out there. It’s much, much easier. You’re so much more accurate
and not only that, you get a much better feel for what’s
actually going on on the bottom as well. I used to fish up in Yateley
and we’d always joke about how I brought the rain with me. This was to be the case again as torrential rain storms
interrupted the sunshine. Typical English weather.
The carp didn’t mind, though, sat safe amongst the weed. Throughout the summer
you get hours of inactivity and it’s time for you
not to lose your head now. You’ve got to chill,
know what you’re doing is working. This morning I had bites on all rods. There’s no reason
for me to change anything now just because its gone quiet. The bite time is the bite time,
it’s as simple as that and you need your rigs out on bite time. Well before if you’re going
to do your recasting and stuff. You want to do it well in advance
of when you’re expecting to catch. So when they do turn up,
it’s been settled and ready to rock. It would be crazy for me now to move
to try and find some new spots. It’s the weed that makes it really hard. It’s time now for me to sit back
and wait for bite time again. The bait’s right, the baiting’s right. I just have to make sure I’m not reeled in
and doing something strange when bite time occurs. There’s loads of big fish in here.
I’m excited. Let’s just wait and see. Before I ship this rod out
I’m just going to quickly talk to you about the bait that I’m using. Simple ingredients,
things that I know carp like. So the first of them is pellets.
I absolutely love pellets. These are Activ-8. I love them,
I’ve used them for years. I’ve got so much faith in them.
They absolutely stink and I dose them up
with a bit more liquid as well. I put Activ-8 boilies in there, a nice
fishmeal boilie for the summertime. I’ve got some 10mm Cell,
they like Cell everywhere. They complement the tiger nuts nicely
so that’s the little mixture. There’s a bit of everything,
it absolutely stinks and I’m pretty sure
if carp do swim past it, they’ll at least have a little go
at eating some of it. There’s absolutely no denying
this is a complete pain to do but it’s also definitely worth it. The accuracy
is absolutely second to none. I can literally plonk it
exactly where I want it. Well, the evening’s drawing in so I thought I’d redo my rods
for the night, fresh for when they turn up – hopefully
a repeat of last night will happen – and while I’m doing it I thought
I’d just show you the rig I’m using. It’s a really simple rig,
one that doesn’t tangle and one that you can fish on any bottom
if you fish it correctly. I’ve got a Spinner rig there,
everyone’s using them at the moment. I’ve got a size-4 Krank
on the little quick-change swivel with a little tiny hook bait on there. That little hook bait
and big hook combination seems to work really well for me. There’s a little bit of putty on there just
to make sure that pop-up sinks nicely. With that I’ve got a 7″ hook link
made with 25lb Boom. It’s very stiff, kicks away
and it’s invisible in water so it’s absolutely perfect
and no tangles at all. The most important part
is the helicopter. This is the most important part
in this situation because I’m able to move that bead up
as far as I want up the leadcore just to make sure that
that stiff hook link sits on top
of anything that’s on the bottom. So if there’s any low-lying weed, like I think there is on the middle
and left-hand rods, I’ll move that bead slightly further up
just to make sure it all sits on top. The little Heli-Safe on the bottom there
just to make sure I can drop the lead which is really important
in these weedy situations because you want direct contact with
the fish should it get caught in the weed. That way you can just easily pull it out. So a rig that you can fish
pretty much anywhere as long as you push that bead
up the leadcore, it’s all sitting perfectly. Hook baits-wise I always
try to make sure I don’t bring too many hook baits. So many people
take lots of different colours, lots of different flavours
and end up getting confused about what one to put on. So for me I’ve got three. The Almond is what I started on
when I first started using the Goo and that’s served me proud
over the years. The Pineapple, which has been
my main one for two or three years now, is my ‘take anywhere’ hook bait. It always ends up
shining through, that one. And most recently the Bumbleberry.
That changes it to a nice, red colour and I’ve been using that over maggots
on different waters as well. Because I’m using the Spinner rig,
I want a little tiny hook bait. So, pop-ups from Mainline, mainly the
Milky Toffee and the Pineapple ones because they’re not so strong in the
colour, so the Goo can change them. Just make sure that you’re preparing
them long before the session. You don’t want to be putting some liquid
on just the day before you go fishing because it won’t have had time to soak
through to the core of the hook bait. Maybe a month or two before,
put a little bit of liquid on, shake them around in a pot, keep
shaking, shaking, shaking them until all of the liquid soaks in
and when they’re dry put another little bit on. Repeat the process two or three times, even more if you’re doing it
long before your session. So as soon as they dry out,
put some more liquid on and by the time you’re fishing
they’re doused in the liquid and the flavour’s there to last
a long time in the water. I think everyone’s a bit obsessed
with slack lines at the moment but in a situation like this you
don’t want to be fishing slack lines. You want to be fishing a much
tighter line all the way to the spot so your line doesn’t bury down
into the weed. You get bad indication if that happens and the chances
of getting snagged are far more. So fish tighter lines,
direct contact with the lead and you’ll land more fish that way. The key to fishing places like this
is strong and reliable tackle, line that you know is not going to snap, hooks that you know
are not going to open or pull out, some leadcore at the end
or some sort of leader so you’re not getting cut off
by small mussels in the weed or the stems of the lily pads, making sure you’re fishing
something nice and strong so if you hook a fish,
you’re going to land it. For the last night of the session, I decided to position a rod
out in open water, too. And despite losing a carp quite quickly
I went to bed feeling good. It was a typical
summer evening in Yateley, otherwise known as Heaven. By morning, though,
all I’d caught were tench. Dovey, on the other hand,
had managed to nick one more. The biggest of the trip and a
lovely way to finish our 48 hours. Quite fitting, the biggest one at the end.
I’ve absolutely loved it. Yeah, it’s wicked. You can’t help but
enjoy yourself on a complex like this. So a massive thank you to Martin for letting us come down
and fish the Pads Lake. We’ll certainly be coming back
but in the meantime we’ll get these pictures done because
he wants to go home, doesn’t he? Let’s do it.

14 comments on “Korda Carp Fishing Masterclass Vol. 4 Chapter 3: Precision Weed Fishing (13 LANGUAGES)

  1. elliot probably gives the best rig tutorials there is, very informative and very easy to follow dose not miss a step and covers every little thing

  2. good tutorials just a shame most of the tactics they use like braided mainline and lead core leaders are banned from most fisheries the normal person fishes at

  3. venite nella cava dove vado io e poi ne riarlimo di alghe vado in una cava libera e per pescare avvolte le alghe te le devi tagliare è molto difficile come posto quasi più di quel lago comunque bel video e penso di utilizzare quelle tecniche nella cava dove vado !!!!!

  4. Still don’t get why you change a white pop up pink. Does it not make sense to by pink and flavour with goo

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