Pasta col tonno: 2 ricette di Alessio Marchese
Hi everybody, I’m chef Alessio Marchese
from the restaurant Bioesserì in Palermo. Today we’re making two recipes for pasta with tuna
together: one is very traditional, the other, instead is revisited, reimagined by me.
Let’s start with the first recipe the reinterpreted one. The recipe is
Spaghetti all’Eoliana. The ingredients for this recipe are: spaghetti, tomato purée,
tuna fumet, anchovies from Aspra, dehdyrated cherry tomatoes,
black olives, caper berries from Salina, chili-flavored oil, garlic, basil, mint.
Our red tuna from the Mediterranean. Caper berries
from Salina are capers flowering, typical from the
region of Eolie Islands in Sicily. I’m using caper berries instead of capers
as they possess a greater fragrance as well as organoleptic elements
that will complete our recipe. This is a tuna that has already undergone
48 hours of quick temperature abatement. It will be very important for
this recipe as we will use it raw. If we don’t have
a blast chiller at home, we can use our home refrigerator by placing the tuna in for at least 96 hours
before using it. Let’s start with the first recipe. We’ll start
from the chili oil. This chili oil is obtained by heating an
extra virgin olive oil and taking it to 45°C, soaking the chili and letting them macerate for 24 hours. A pressed garlic clove. Our dehydrated cherry tomatoes.
A very generous dose. Our caper berries, already cut and
without stem. Some black olives and an anchovies filet from Aspra.
We’re letting everything sizzle well, let the flavors mix.
We’re adding our tomato purée, no more than three spoons,
to finish it wit our tuna fumet. We’ll obtain the tuna fumet
by boiling a tuna fishbone and cleaning it well from the blood before.
This is a very important phase, as since we’ll use
raw tuna, it will provide that flavor to our tuna sauce,
the one we’re looking for. So, we’ll have a pasta that tastse like tuna,
but the tuna will be raw. It’ll be very pleasant as it will give
freshness to our plate. We’re lightly salting our water
and throwing our spaghetti in. In the meantime, we’re making our
tuna tartare. We’re cutting a pair of slices and then start cutting our tuna.
We’re moving it in a steel or glass bowl and proceed to the seasoning
for our tartare. We’re adding pink salt, ground at the moment. Black pepper,
Verdello lemon or lime, it makes no difference. It’s important that we make sure
that our limes or lemons, in this case, are untreated. We’re using
a small piece of a ginger root, that we’re grating at the moment.
This will make our dish very fresh. To finish, we’re adding a quite
generous dose of extra virgin olive oil. Now all we have to do is
straining our spaghetti. We’re straining our spaghetti
using a tong. It’s important to strain our spaghetti
when they’re very firm, as we’ll finish cooking them in a pan, where
the pasta will absorb a part of the liquid. We’re removing the garlic clove
and proceeding to the thickening of the pasta. Almost at the end
of the cooking time, we’ll ultimately add, to enrich
the fragrance of our dish, small leaf of basil, that we’re breaking
with our hands, and a small leaf of mint. As you noticed, I didn’t add any salt
as the ingredients that we used are almost entirely sapid:
black olives in brine, caper berries from Salina,
the dehydrated cherry tomato, the anchovies. We’re now ready to plate.
Using our tong, we’ll place the spaghetti. I’m not trying
to arrange the pasta upwards, I’m trying to place it in a very traditional way,
spreading it low. We’re finishing with our sauce, adding it on top.
Let’s remove the ring and finish the plate by adding all of the
elements we used before, during the cooking phase, recalling them. We’re adding
some black olives, dehydrated tomatoes, caper berries.
We’ll obviously finish it with a generous dose of our tuna tartare. Here is our Spaghetti all’Eoliana.
Let’s proceed to the second recipe.
The ingredients for the second recipe are: kamut rigatoni by Monograno Felicetti,
white onion, anchovies, tomato purée, tuna fumet,
white wine, crumbled bread, pine nuts, sultanas, mint and thyme.
Our tuna, at last. Unlike the previous recipe, in this case
we’re overcooking the tuna so the pre-abatement it’s not important
as we know that the cooking prevents any risk of bacteria contamination. First, we’ll start by cutting our tuna very coarsely and unevenly
because, as I said before, we’re going to overcook it. I’m sharing a little secret
with you, a trick I always use: before cooking any element I’m always lightly marinating,
lightly scenting, starting to give the dish all the flavors that I’m
going to look for in the final result. In this case, I’m adding a pressed
garlic clove, some branches of thyme, salt and pepper.
Once we added the ingredients for the marination, we’re letting everything
macerate for at least 10 minutes. Let’s start by preparing our tuna ragù. We’ll place a skillet on the flame
right away and add extra virgin olive oil. We’ll add our white onion, minced,
letting it sizzle well. We’re adding a filet of these
great anchovies and let it melt well. If we notice that the
temperature is too high and we can’t control it anymore, we can add
a bit of water to let our onion cook further.
We can now add our tuna that we let macerate
for 10 minutes. We’re browning it on all the sides. Now we roasted the tuna and we’re ready
to simmer with our white wine until reduced. It’ll be very important to let all the alcohol
of the white wine evaporate before proceeding with the addition of the tomato purée to avoid obtaining a final result that is
too acid, a recipe that is very acid. We’re now adding the tomato purée
and our tuna fumet. We can add some branches of thyme,
some mint leaves and we’ll continue cooking for at least
40 minutes on a controlled flame. After we cooked for about 40 minutes our tuna ragù, meanwhile we’re throwing our
kamut rigatoni in the water. Our ragù is ready and we’re waiting for
the pasta to be cooked. We can proceed with the preparation of
toasted bread alla Siciliana. It’s a classic of our tradition. We’ll proceed
in a very simple way: let’s add a drop of the anchovies oil.
In this case, I’m not adding the whole anchovies again to avoid
and excessive sapidity in the final dish. We’re adding some of our
pine nuts and some sultanas. We’re now adding the crumbled bread and let it toast until it is browned.
We’re not adding salt at all, we added the sultanas
on purpose, as this element will give the sweet contrast
together with the pine nuts to our recipe. We now have all of the elements to finish our recipe.
Let’s add some of our tuna ragù and let it warm well.
We’re ready to strain our kamut rigatoni. Let’s start thickening our pasta. Let’s add some mint leaf
to give the essential oils that are needed for the fragrance
we look for in the final recipe. We’re ready for the plating.
Being this a very classic recipe, in this case I’m proceeding with
a very classic plating. I’ll place the rigatoni without using
any kind of ring and carefully adding the sauce generously. We’re finishing
the plate with an abundant dose of our crumbled bread, raisins
and toasted pine nuts. Here is our finished plate: rigatoni with tuna ragù.