Claire Corlett

Fish Food, Fish Tanks, and More
Waggler float fishing – lake

Waggler float fishing – lake

(gentle breeze moving leaves) – [Fishing Guide] Let’s start
by looking at a standard Waggler float rig. The float is threaded onto
the main line at one end 2/3 to 3/4 of the total shot carrying capacity of the float
is then grouped around the base of the float. A small shot, maybe a number
four, is added, say, 8 inches from the hook, then above
this, a group of shot is added to make up the rest of
the float’s capacity. That is what makes up a standard straight Waggler float rig. It’s designed to get the
bait very quickly down to the lake bed in the
hope of catching fish like carp, tench, bream but also perch and roach and perhaps even the odd rudd. So you could literally
just copy that go out and catch a few fish. But why is the float only
attached at the bottom and why put the shot where I’ve put them? If I may, I will tell you
my thoughts on the subject. Some years ago this was a
very popular float indeed. It’s a porcupine quill and
it’s fixed onto the line at the top and the bottom. This particular one I bought,
must be 40 years ago now, and it’s caught me a lot of fish. I’ll use it close in with rod
and line but there’s a major drawback with a float like this. It drifts and it drifts
very easily indeed. Any sort of movement
in the water will make this float move with it. Now the problem with that
is as the float drifts it of course, brings the bait
with it so you can end up with in a situation where any
loose feed you’ve thrown in to attract the fish is stationary
resting on the lake bed and the one piece of bait
you want the fish to eat is acting unnaturally. It’s being dragged along
by the float drifting. The fish are going be suspicious
of this and are less likely to pick up your bait. Let’s have a quick look at drift first before we go any further. This is the lake I’m fishing
and it’s surrounded by trees and I’m fishing about here. For the last couple a days
quite a strong wind has blown in from the north but because
of the cover from the trees only this part of the lake
is being affected by the wind which over that time has started the lake circulating like this. Have a look at this speeded
up at a film and you can see the whole lake is being
stirred up by the wind. With my old-fashioned quill
float the movement of the water is not only pushing the
float but it’s also pushing the line that’s laying on the surface so you can see where I’m going with this. If you could sink the line
below the surface you would immediately reduce the amount
the float drifts which is why Waggler’s are fixed
only at the bottom. The float, in effect, holds
the line down under the surface in an area of water that’s
not moving as quickly as the water at the surface. If you then have the tip of
your rod below the surface it can, in effect, get all
of the line between you and the float down into a layer of water that’s not moving as quickly. So Waggler’s are fixed onto
the line at the bottom end only to help combat the effects of drift. Next question, Why is 3/4 to 2/3 of the shot carrying capacity grouped
around the base of the float? This has to do with casting. To cast a Waggler and be
reasonably sure of not getting tangles the amount of weight bulked around the base of the float must exceed all the rest of
the shot used in the rig. This ensures that the float precedes the rest of the rig on the
cast so the heaviest part of the rig flies in front and
the next heaviest behind it and then the hook and
the bait behind that. All nice and neat and unlikely to tangle until the rig gets close to the water. As the rig approaches
the water it’s important to feather the line down. Now I’ve already made a film about that, it’s in the glossary. But essentially feathering
the line down ensures that the rig lands correctly and
won’t tangle on the landing. The single shot nearest the hook is called the tell tale shot. Without a doubt the tell tale
shot is the most important shot on the rig. It’s so important that
I again, have made a separate film about that. It’s in the “How To” section
under “Waggler Fishing”, “Tell Tale Shot”. It’s a bit of a quirky film
but please stick with it because the information is gold dust. That leaves us with the group
of shot that lie between the tell tale and the float. These are called the bulk shot. The purpose of the bulk shot is two-fold. Firstly, to get the bait
down quickly to the lake bed which is where your fish
are, where you’re fishing, and also to prevent tangles on the cast. Without the bulk shot you
could end up with several feet of line between the
float and the tell tale which will flap around and
misbehave during the cast while it’s in the air. So the bulk shot help to prevent
that line flapping around and causing a tangle. But there is one golden rule. The distance between the
hook and the tell tale must always be less than the distance between the tell tale and the bulk. Again, this is to prevent tangles while the rig is in the air. Now what I’ve just said is
fine if you are fishing in three or four feet of water
but let’s imagine you’re fishing in eight feet of water. You’ve got that same problem. You will end up with a
large amount of loose line between the bulk shot and the float. So in that instance it’s
perfectly okay to move perhaps one or two of the bulk shot
up the line but no more than 1/2 way between the bulk
shot and the float just to prevent that loose line flapping around. How do you decide what size float to use? The most obvious thing is
how far are you going to cast? Here the lake is about 60 meters wide and with a 3BB float I can
cast a quarter of the way across but with a 3AAA float I can reach 1/2 way
across but of course float selection is not quite
that simple because it also depends on weather conditions. If I’m casting into the wind
I’m going to need a heavier float than if I’m casting with the wind but also how the wind
is affecting the water. As we saw earlier the wind
can make the water drift causing your bait to behave
unnaturally and although sinking the line below the
surface can help reduce the effects of drift
it’s not usually enough just to sink the line. You may also have to use a
heavy float even though you may be fishing quite close to the bank. A heavier float, a float
that has more shot carrying capacity is almost certainly
longer which, of course, straight away means the
line is being held lower in the water but in addition
to that larger floats can carry more weight and that extra
weight offers additional resistance to the drift
and you can increase that resistance still further by
moving some of the shot from under the float and adding
it to the bulk shot. This will increase the
resistance of the rig to drift because the bulk shot
is in a slower moving layer close to the bottom. So conditions both above
and below the water can dictate what size float to use. But I’m setting up to fish a lake. I’ll take an educated
guess of the size of float. I’ll often attach the
float to the main line by a float adapter rather than putting the line through the float itself. This simply allows you to
change the float easily without having to break everything down. I’ll start by just
putting a shot either side of the float to hold it in place. Then I’ll plumb the depth. Please watch my film “Plumb
the Depth for Fishing” under the “How-To” section. I like to finish plumbing
the depth with the bait just touching the bottom, or in
other words, exact depth. Once I’m happy the rig is set
at exact depth I’ll finish puttin’ the rest of the shots
on and make sure the float cocks so that it shows
just 1/2 an inch of tip above the surface. Although floats often have
their capacity written on the side it’s not always
exact so expect the float to take a little more or a little less weight than it actually specifies. Once I’m all set up and I’ve
decided exactly where to fish in front of me I’ll catapult
or throw in some loose offerings just to attract some fish. When casting the Waggler
rig, always cast overhead and cast beyond where you intend to fish. This will give you room to
sink the line by plunging the end of your rod below
the water and then reeling in really quickly to drag the
line below the surface. Stop the float in the feed
area and let it settle. I probably only leave the
float 10 minutes, perhaps, undisturbed but rather than
reel all the way in and cast back out again, I’ll perhaps
reel in just a couple a turns just enough to disturb the float, make it move a foot or two, maybe. That way you get to re-present your bait without having to recast. What if, after say an hour,
you’ve cast several times, re-presented the bait but
still haven’t caught any fish? Well, clearly, there’s something wrong. The most obvious thing is
that there are no fish. Although that’s possible
it’s probably unlikely. What’s far more likely is either the fish simply aren’t hungry. You got to appreciate that
even with the best presentation and bait and all the rest of it, if they don’t want to eat, they won’t. The other possibility is that your bait looks suspicious to the fish. There’s something wrong with
the presentation and they just won’t touch it. With the rig I’ve described
in this film there are three basic ways of presenting the bait. Firstly, you can present it
two or three inches above the bottom which will put the bait right in the fishies eyeline but this is also a very good tactic for a lake bed that is very silty or covered in
leaves and twigs which I believe carp anglers call chod, a choddy bottom. The second presentation is with the bait just touching the bottom. Here you’re trying to emulate
the loose feed so it’s just gently resting on the lake bed. And finally there’s laying on, where you’re fishing over depth allowing, I would say, no more than eight inches of line to lay along the bottom. Laying on allows for a
completely static bait. Yes, once again, we’re back to drifting. If, despite all your best
efforts to prevent your float drifting, laying on is the final solution. Line laid on the bottom
will act as an anchor. If the rig still drifts then
you can pinch on perhaps a No.8 or even a No.6 shot to help hold the rig in place. So if you’re not getting any
bites it’s worth altering the presentation to try and
discover what the fish want. Fish can be very fickle in
their feeding habits and there are times when they will not eat anything that’s on the bottom. They’ll only take your bait
when it’s two or three inches above and vicea-versa. It’s up to you to find out
what the fish want on that day. Okay. Last thing to look
at is reading the float, telling the difference between
proper bites and false bites takes a bit of practice. This is a line bite. It’s literally where the
fish is banged into the line below the float and caused
the float to just jerk under and then pop back up again. But it is useful information
because if you’ve not caught anything yet at least you
know there’s fish in the swim. Here I’m fishing light on to
combat the drift and I’m happy that the float is properly anchored. Then this happens. It drifts a few inches
and then stops again. So I have to say a fish
has disturbed it causing it to drift a little and then stop. More evidence of fish in the swim. Here’s a proper bite. A few sharp movements as the
fish manipulates the bait and then just swims away with
it, pulling the float under making an easily seen bite. Not quite so obvious is this
bite where the float just seems to race to the right. Although the float wasn’t pulled
under it can only be a fish causing it to move like that
so that is a proper bite. And finally, the easiest of
all to spot, where the fish just pulled the float under, unmissable. Well, I think that’s
about it for my thoughts on Waggler fishing. I hope you’ve enjoyed it
and I hope it’s of use. Thank you very much indeed for watching. – [Cameraman] Please visit the “Amateur Angling” YouTube channel or the “Amateur Angling” website and blog for more films and articles on fishing.

73 comments on “Waggler float fishing – lake

  1. Fantastic video, so nice to watch a very informative video that explains in depth the technique as opposed to these videos that promote there latest gear. my motto in fishing is 'keep it simple' and i do this and its so more enjoyable. thanks again for the video really informative.

  2. Best float fishing video I have ever seen by a country mile – fantastic. I will certainly look up the other videos you cite.

  3. Absolutely brilliant instructional video. I've been fishing wagglers for well over 20 years and still managed to learn and be reminded of little details I'd forgotten. Keep up the good work!

  4. A very good basic guide to waggler fishing. The only minor criticism would be that to use smaller shot down the line for the bulk and droppers ie all eights and tens I feel would be better but only in water up to about 6 ft deep and please point out that fish can be found at all depths not just on the bottom. Regular feeding is essential. Probably the best beginners guide I have seen so far!

  5. Excellent the best video I have seen on YouTube on how to float fish on stillwaters very well explained. Could you please put a video up on how to fish with pva mesh and pva bags when you get time? Loved your video on how to fish with the method feeder also Thanks 🙂 Darren from Ireland.

  6. Another brilliant video. Could I ask you, what rod and reel do you use ? Your videos in my opinion are not just informative but also inspiring to get yourself out there and enjoy the sport of fishing. Many thanks again. Regards. Ethan.

  7. Really good video thanks. Great coverage of information and I liked the added graphics. Nice link to other videos too. Keep it up!

  8. Can I just say, thank you very much for this video! This is 1 of only 2 videos I have seen which explains in detail exactly what to do for beginners and gives variation incase it doesn't work. The other video being Matt Hayes how to float fish, which got me into fishing. However I found when I went out I still didn't have a clue what I was doing lol I want to get back out there this year and try again so looked for the Matt Hayes video, however, it seems to have a copyright claim! Thankfully, I have found your video, and I truly believe I have a lot better understanding from this than I did from Matt Hayes so thank you. I'll be out again soon now

  9. I wish I had found these videos when I started out! Extremely helpful and I like how everything is described completely from scratch. Keep it up as I image you are helping loads of beginners

  10. Thank you for the video. Very good presentation. Question for you: is it possible to create this float using simple elements? Symmetry is important here.

  11. What an excellent video. Learnt more in a few minutes. Other videos seem more interested in showing fish being caught than actual tackling up using correct methods. Thanks, will certainly see all your other videos.

  12. Thanks for a well designed and presented video. I am encouraged to do more waggler fishing now that I understand the principles a bit better.

  13. Good video. But you could of explained the size or weight of the weighs you were using for it to sit at the bottom like that

  14. I fished in my youth then stopped. 40 years later I'm looking to get back into it with my teenage boys and your videos are fantastic. Brought it all back and really helps refresh my jaded memories. Thank you :).

  15. Thanks for another great video. When I last fished aged 11 it seemed so much easier than now I am taking it back up at 66. I have a lot to learn and have only caught a small Rudd after three trips to my local lake but boy am I enjoying it. As more professional angler's say " tight lines everyone".

  16. You are an excellent teacher.  Your instructions are clear and easy to follow.  It's a pleasure attending your "classes".

  17. Great videos and as others have said, your instructions are clear and easy to follow. Thanks for taking your time out for making these. I am 33 and i last went fishing regularly when i was about 13 or 14. Since then i went fishing once with my whip in 2011 and i go on the odd sea fishing trip when abroad. I am going ledger fishing for the first ever time next Tuesday and i have been practicing tying knots and loops. Went to my local tackle shop yesterday bought a few things. So excited! still have a lot of the same gear i've had since i was 14. During those times when i was regularly fishing i only ever Pole or waggler fished. Watching this video has given me new ideas and important things to consider for when i next go waggler fishing.

    I have been put off waggler/pole fishing in the winter due to fish being less active and mostly just staying on the bottom in deep water which is why i'm ledgering next week. Would you say this is true? bottom fishing (ledger, feeder) is best for the winter? of course i could waggler fish on the bottom with plumbing the depth but wouldnt it just be better, quicker and easier to just ledger fish for fishing on the bottom? maybe the odd fish will come up in the water a bit so could still be worth the waggler, or pole if its not so windy.
    What are your thoughts on that? and anyones' thoughts welcome…i'm very much an amateur angler. I mean amateur level one! cheers.

  18. Thank you for your great advices through your splendid videos. Is it possible to use the tell tale shot as an anchor when i use a loaded waggler for the lift-method? And if so, should the distance of the shot to the hook be the same as in a normal rig, so around four to seven inches?
    Kind regards from a beginner from germany 🙂

  19. The best educational fishing video I've seen. Clearly spoken, not rushed, well presented and with good graphics, everything a novice or intermediate Angler needs, thank you so much for making and sharing this great video.

  20. Hi Richard. Your videos are great I'm a sea fisherman, beach saying predominantly, and was wondering at 0:50 into the video you display a graphic showing a rig setup underwater. I want to do the same for sea fishing videos. Would you be able to advise on how or what you use to create that graphic? Many thanks, Joey. Keep up the good work!

  21. Hi Richard, thanks for the below answer which video software do you use? I was thinking about just using Windows movie maker!

  22. all good sound advice. Would add the small rubber float stops you slide up the line are a great addition allowing float depth to be changed without the need to move shot too much. one or two either side of float can hold it in place. I put shot below float so float can easily be slid up the line to increased depth. Self loading floats also good as they reduce number of shot you need to pinch on the line .

  23. It seems to me that the main problem of float drift at the beginning of the video is that you haven't sunk your line. School boy error.

  24. Ive fished for the best part of 60 years this style of fishing was the norm then, very well explained! I will give feeder rod pole a break and go back down memory lane your lessons are a lesson to everyone

  25. Amazing content. I'm really grateful about the sheer amount and quality of information you've provided. As a complete beginner myself I can't wait until my next session to put all these tips in practice.

  26. What's happened if you are fishing with waggler float on 7 m deepth. With fixed float is very difficult, almost imposible

  27. thanks for the explanations the layout of the lead is really important. I write from Italy, I follow your videos and I practice sea fishing. . . thank you my friend, greetings from the island of Elba! ! !

  28. For a guy calling himself an "amateur" you sure are the best pro I've ever known at explaining fishing techniques!

  29. Excellent video, absolutely the best explanations I have seen with clean graphics and lots of examples.

  30. I just start fishing and you are an amazing teacher…. thank you very much for your time and your good work.

  31. Been fishing for years, with a few different techniques, but I LOVE this video, firstly for how it’s done and then the content!!! 😊 Keep up the very good work !

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